APPENDIX

THE SUSSEX DOWNS FROM END TO END

The following summary will suggest to the stranger how his time, if limited, could be so disposed as to take in the whole range with those villages which are essentially Downland settlements and those which lie immediately at the foot of the escarpment. For this purpose the order of the book is reversed and the tourist should start at the western or Hampshire end and finish his walk at Beachy Head. The enjoyment of this tour will of course be greatly enhanced if half the distance is traversed each day, thus doubling the time.

COWDRAY COTTAGE

1ST DAY.— Midhurst (Angel Inn) or Cocking Station via Lynch Down, Beacon Hill, to Harting, 9 miles (Ship Inn).

2ND DAY.— Harting to Bow Hill and Kingley Bottom via North and East Marden, 8 miles; on to West Dean, Singleton and Cocking (Inn), 17 miles; or Midhurst, 20 miles.

3RD DAY.— Cocking by Heyshott Down and Duncton Beacon to East Dean, 7 miles (Inn); on by Burton Down and Bignor Hill (Stane Street) to Bignor, 13 miles (Inn); on to Amberley, 19 miles (Inn).

4TH DAY.— Amberley to Rackham and Kithurst Hills; down to Storrington (White Horse Inn), 5 miles. By the main road to Washington (Inn) and Wiston. Ascend Chanctonbury Ring, 10 miles; on to Cissbury Ring and over Downs at Steyning, 16 miles (White Horse).

5TH DAY.— Steyning via Bramber and Upper Beeding to Trueleigh Hill and Devil's Dyke, 6 miles (Inn); down to Poynings, round Newtimber Hill to Pyecombe and Wolstonbury, thence by hill road to Ditchling Beacon, 12 miles; on by edge of Downs to Mount Harry and down to Lewes, 18 miles (White Hart, Crown, etc.)

6TH DAY.— Lewes over Cliffe Hill and Mount Caburn to Glynde and West Firle, 4 miles (Inn); over Firle Beacon and along edge of Downs to Alfriston, 9 miles (Star Inn); by Lullington to Windover Hill ("Long Man of Wilmington") down to Jevington, 12 miles (Inn); up to Willingdon Hill and thence by eastern edge of Downs all the way to Beachy Head, 17 miles. Eastbourne, 20 miles.

SKETCH MAP OF THE ROADS FROM LONDON TO THE DOWNS.

LONDON TO THE SOUTH DOWNS—THE WEALD

The writer of the preceding chapters has often been tempted to trespass outside the limits imposed upon him, and penetrate the woody fastnesses of the Weald. In this separate section a short description will be given of some of the most characteristic scenes and interesting towns and villages between London and the coast.

A certain proportion of the pleasure of a holiday is, or should be, obtained on the journey toward the goal. This is, of course, much more the case where road rather than rail is taken, and most of the routes to the south run through a lovely and varied countryside which will repay a leisurely mode of progression. To the writer there is no way of seeing England equal to doing that on foot; however, it would be unreasonable to expect every one to adopt this mode of travelling even if they were able, and these notes can easily be followed by motorist or cyclist without undue loss of time.

LONDON TO LEWES BY WESTERHAM AND MARESFIELD

This road keeps within Kent until the boundary of Sussex is reached, and runs via Catford Bromley and Keston, climbing gradually to Westerham Hill, after which there is a steep and dangerous descent to the small town of Westerham (23 miles) pleasantly situated between the North Downs and the sandy hills of the Surrey Weald. It is famous as the birthplace of Wolfe, whose statue adorns the green, around which is grouped the quietly dignified assemblage of inns, shops and houses that are typical of this part of Kent. The large and finely situated church also has a memorial to the local hero, who was born in the vicarage here and buried at Greenwich.

The road continues through pleasant country over Crockham Hill to Edenbridge (28 m.) on the small river Eden. Although the immediate surroundings are dull and featureless this is a good centre from which to explore the district eastwards to Hever, Penshurst, and Tonbridge. One mile out of the town we bear left and, in another three, cross the Kent Water into Sussex. In 7½ miles the road passes over the Medway to Hartfield (33½ m.) on the edge of Ashdown Forest. The Early English church has a lych-gate dating from 1520. Inside may be seen three piscinas, one in an uncommon position near the south door.

[A long mile east is Withyam, with a Perpendicular church famous for its monuments of the Dorset family. Only a gateway remains of the ancient Buckhurst mansion, the greater part of the materials going to the erection of Sackville college at East Grinstead.]

From Hartfield we climb steadily towards the centre of the Forest with occasional wide views between the close woods which line the northern slopes.

[Before reaching Camp Hill and near the summit, a path leads left to Crowborough, which of late years has become suburban and a second Haslemere. The Beacon commands wide views, but the immediate surroundings have been spoilt.]

We now drop towards Maresfield with grand forward views over the Weald to the South Downs.

Maresfield (41 m.) has a small Decorated church with a Norman window in the nave. Note the ancient woodwork and restored oak porch, also two stoups, one within and the other outside the church. This was once an important "Black Country" centre. Local names, such as "The Forge" perpetuate the memory of this strange period in the history of Sussex, which was at its busiest about 1680, the last furnace being quenched in 1828.

"It is a strange thing to remember, when one is standing on the cold desolate hills about Crowborough Beacon, or in the glens of the Tilgate Forest—now the very picture of quiet, and rest, and loneliness—that this same Sussex was once the iron mart of England. Once, spotted over these hills and through these forests, there were forges that roared from morning till night, chimneys that sent up their smoke and their poisonous vapour from one year's end to another; cannon were cast ... where now there is no harsher voice than the tap of the woodpecker.... One cannot fancy the forests of St. Leonards and Ashdown, the Wolverhampton of their age. But so it was; and not the least remarkable thing ... is the absence of traditions about the life and customs of the manufacturers so employed." (Lower.)

[From Maresfield a round of about thirty miles could be made through the beautiful East Sussex Weald, rejoining the main road at Uckfield. In two miles is Buxted, which has an interesting Early English church standing high amidst woods. In the Decorated chancel is the brass of Britellus Avenel (1408) and J. de Lewes (1330), by whom the church was founded. Note the old muniment chest in the north aisle and the mortuary chapel of the Earls of Liverpool south of the chancel. Not far from the church is "Hog House," note the hog carved over the door and dated 1581. The Hogge family, ironmasters, once lived here. In 1543 was cast the first iron cannon made in this country.

"Master Huggett and his man John,

They did cast the first cannon."

Not far away is the one time cell of a hermit, carved out of the rock, and named "The Vineyard." The road now winds through a remote country, which once resounded with the clangour of the forge, to Hadlow Down and Butcher's Cross and in seven miles reaches Mayfield. The village street is according to Coventry Patmore the "sweetest in Sussex." The half-timbered "Middle House" nearly opposite the church is the best example of this style of architecture in the south, it is dated 1575. Lower House was built about 1625. The fine Perpendicular church is on the site of the traditional building erected by St. Dunstan. This was made of wood, and the Saint, finding that the orientation was not quite true, set his shoulder to the wall and pushed it straight! The visitor will note the fine effect of the raised chancel, the roof of which is composed of a one time gallery. Note, among other objects, the old screen and choir stalls; a squint; font dated 1666; iron slabs in the nave to the Sands (1668 and 1708); monument to T. Aynscombe (1620); chandeliers; and curious east window; and, not least, the glorious view from the churchyard.

The Palace of the Archbishops is now a convent: it was restored by Pugin after being in a state of ruin for many years. Certain portions may be seen at uncertain times. In the ancient dining-room are preserved the hammer, tongs and anvil of St. Dunstan. The Saint's well is in the garden. It was hereabouts that St. Dunstan had his great tussle with the Devil, holding the fiend by the nose with his tongs; eventually the Evil One wrenched himself free; making an eight mile leap he cooled his nose in a pool of water, giving it for ever "a flavour of warm flat irons" and making the fortune of the future Tunbridge Wells. Mayfield has another claim to a niche in history, not a quaint old tale like the above but a sombre fact:—

"Next followed four, which suffered at Mayfield, in Sussex, the twenty-fourth of September 1556, of whose names we find two recorded, and the other two we yet know not, and therefore, according to our register, hereunder they be specified, as we find them: John Hart, Thomas Ravendale, a shoemaker and a carrier, which said four being at the place where they should suffer, after they had made their prayers, and were at the stake ready to abide the force of the fire, they constantly and joyfully yielded their lives for the testimony of the glorious Gospel of Jesus Christ." (Foxe.)

The scenery hereabouts is distinctly of Devonian character. Rich and varied views reward the leisurely traveller who will make a side excursion to Rotherfield, passing, halfway the conical Argos Hill crowned with a windmill. The village, though not so interesting as Mayfield, is well placed and has a fine Perpendicular church, the spire being a landmark for many miles. Here is an east window by Burne Jones and several other good examples of modern stained glass which make fine splashes of colour in the old building. A quaint saying in reference to the handsome presence of the Rotherfield women is that they have an "extra pair of ribs."

The beautiful district between here and Tunbridge Wells deserves a chapter to itself. Frant Wadhurst and Ticehurst belong more naturally to West Kent than East Sussex. These three beautiful villages and the glorious Eridge Park could be combined in this excursion by the traveller who has unlimited time.

We may now follow the valley of the Rother through scenery of much quiet beauty to Burwash, 6½ miles from Mayfield. Here is an old church with a (possibly) Saxon tower and an interesting iron slab inscribed "Orate p Annima Johne Colins," probably the oldest piece of local ironwork in existence. The outline of the village is eminently satisfying to the artist, especially the house called "Rampyndens." Burwash is connected with the Rev. J. Cocker Egerton, to whom reference has already been made. From the natives of this particular district was gleaned that record of rustic humour which makes the Sussex peasant depicted in his writings so real to those who know him. The village has lately become the home of Rudyard Kipling, who lives at "Batemans," a beautiful old house in an adjacent valley surrounded by wooded hills. "Puck of Pooks Hill" is said to have been inspired by the locality. Brightling Beacon, three miles farther, commands the finest prospect of the western Weald, the immediate foreground being of great beauty. Brightling church should also be seen.

A return could now be made by way of Heathfield, from Brightling, passing Cade Street. Here a monument commemorates the death of Jack Cade, who was shot by an arrow discharged by Alexander Iden, Sheriff of Kent, in 1450. Cade had been hiding at Newick Farm; gaining confidence he came out for a game of bowls and met his end while playing. Heathfield

old

village and church are off the main road to the left; our route passes the railway station and runs westwards to Cross-in-Hand and Blackboys; this road is a succession of lovely views throughout the seven miles to Framfield, where there is a Tudor church. A short two miles more brings us to our main route at Uckfield.]