Chapter I. · Part 12

And thus concluding without naming any person, I went downe out of the pulpit, and caused the Idol to be brought after me, and sending for an axe, and for two or three great pans of coales, I commanded him to be hewen in very small peeces, and to be cast in the fire and burned before all the people in the midst of the Church. The _Spaniards_ cried out joyfully _Victor Victor_, and others repeated, _Gloria à nostro Dios_, Glory to our God, the Idolaters held their peace and spake not then a word. But afterwards they acted most spightfully against me, and conspired day and night to get me at some advantage, and to kill me. I writ to the President of _Guatemala_ informing him of what I had done; and to the Bishop (as an Inquisitor to whom such cases of idolatry did belong) to be informed from him of what course I should take with the _Indians_ who were but in part yet discovered unto me, and those onely by the relation of one _Indian_. From both I received great thanks for my paines in searching the mountaine, and finding out the Idol, and for my zeal in burning of it.

And as touching the _Indian_ Idolaters their counsell unto me was, that I should further enquire after the rest and discover as many as I could, and indeavour to convert them to the knowledge of the true God by faire and sweet meanes, shewing pity unto them for their great blindnesse, and promising them upon their repentance pardon from the Inquisition, which considering them to be but new plants useth not such rigour with them, which it useth with _Spaniards_ if they fall into such horrible sins. This advise I followed, and sent privately for the _Fuentes_ to my chamber, and told them how mercifull the Inquisition was unto them, expecting their conversion and amendment. They seemed somewhat stubborne and angry for that I had burned that God, whom not only they, but many others in the Towne, and also in the Towne of Saint _John Sacatepeques_ did worship. I used reasons to perswade them no honour was due unto it, as to a God. But one of them boldly replyed, that they knew that it was a peece of wood and of it selfe could not speake, but seeing it had spoken (as they were all witnesses) this was a miracle whereby they ought to be guided, and they did verily beleeve that God was in that piece of wood, which since the speech made by it was more then ordinary wood, having God himselfe in it, and therefore deserved more offerings and adoration then those Saints in the Church, who did never speake unto the people.

I told them that the Devill rather had framed that speech (if any they had heard) for to deceive their souls and lead them to hell; which they might easily perceive from the Doctrin which I was informed he had preached against Christ the only begotten son of God, whom the Father loveth and in whom he is well pleased, and against whom he certainly would not speake in that idol. Another answered boldly, our forefathers never knew what Christ was, until the _Spaniards_ came unto that Countrey, but they knew there were Gods, & did worship them, and did sacrifice unto them; and for ought they knew this God of theirs belonged in old times unto their forefathers. Why then, said I unto them, he was a weake God who by my hands hath been burned? I perceived that at that time there was no reasoning with them, for they were stubborn and captious, and so I dismissed them. Had not God most graciously protected me against these my enemies, I had certainly been murthered by them; for a moneth after the burning of the idol, when I thought all had been forgotten, and that the Idolaters were quiet, then they began to act their spight and malice, which first I discovered by a noise which once at midnight I heard of people about my house, and at my chamber doore; to whom I called out from my bed not daring to open, but could have no answer from them, I perceived they would have come in by force, for they pushed hard at the doore.

Whereupon I tooke suddainly the sheets from off my bed, tying them with a strong knot together, and with another to a bar of the window, making my selfe ready to fall down by them to the ground, and so to flie in the dark night, if they had used violence to come in. The sheets being thus prepared, and they still at the doore thrusting without any word from them, I thought by calling and crying out aloud I might affright them away. Wherefore with a shrill voice I called first to my servants, who were but boyes, and lay at the further end of a long gallery, then I cryed out to the neighbouring houses to come and assist me against theeves. The servants had heard the noise and were awake, who presently at my call came out; and with their coming my enemies ran down the staires, and were heard no more that night. But I perceiving which way their spight and malice was bent, thought fit to be no more alone in the night, with boyes only in so great a house as was that of _Mixco_; whereupon the next day I sent for my trusty friend _Miguel Dalva_ who was able to fight alone with any halfe dozen of _Indians_, wishing him to bring with him what weapons he could get for my defence.

I kept him with me a fortnight; and the next Sabbath I gave warning in the Church, that whosoever came in the night to my house to affright me, or to doe me any other mischiefe should looke to him selfe, for that I had weapons both offensive and defensive. Though for a while I heard no more of them, yet they desisted not altogether from their evill and malicious intents; for, knowing that _Miguel Dalva_ did not lie in the same chamber with me, a fortnight after (I being till about midnight with my candle studying) they came up the staires so softly that I heard them not; but the _Black-more_ being awake it seems perceived that they were coming up, and softly arose up from a long table where he lay upon a Mat, and tooke in his hand a couple of brick-bats of many which lay under the table for a worke which I had in hand, and as he opened the dore made a little noise, which was to them an item to flie down the staires, and to run (as they thought) for their lives.

The _Black-more_ did also run after them, and finding they had got too much advantage of him, and not knowing which way they might take, sent after them with a fury his two brick-bats, wherewith he supposed he did hit one of them, for the next day walking about the Towne he met with one of the _Fuentes_ having a cap on his head, and he inquired of some _Indians_ what he ailed, and he understood by them that his head was broke, but how they knew not. They perceiving that I was thus guarded by _Miguel Dalva_, desisted from that time from coming any more in the night unto my house, but yet desisted not from their spight and malice and from acting mischiefe against me. For a month after when I thought that all had been forgotten, and they seemed outwardly to be kind and curteous, there came a messenger to me from the oldest of them, named _Pablo de Fuentes_, to tel me that he was very sick, and like to die, and desired me to goe to comfort and instruct him in the truth, for that he truely desired to be converted.

I conceived very great joy at this newes, and doubted not of the truth and certainty of it, and prayed to God to direct me in the conversion of that soul; and so with haste and good zeal, I went unto his house, where soon my joy and comfort was turned into bitternesse; for when I came to the dore of his house, and was with one step entred, I found all the brothers of _Pablo Fuentes_, and some others who were suspected to be Idolaters, sitting round the room; and missing _Pablo_, I withdrew my foot a little, and asked them where he was, mistrusting somewhat to see them there all gathered together; but when I perceived that they stood not up, nor answered me a word, nor so much as tooke off their hats to me, then I began to fear indeed, and to suspect some treachery; and so I turned back resolving to goe home again. But no sooner was I turned, but behold _Pablo Fuentes_ (who by his message had feigned both sicknesse and conversion) came from behind his house with a cudgell in his hand, lifting it up to strike at me.

Had I not catched hold of his stick with both my hands, and prevented the intended blow, certainly he had struck me down. But whilst he and I were striving for the stick who should be Master of it, the rest of the _Indians_ who were sitting in the house, came out into the yard (which being a publick place was more comfort to me then if they had compassed me about within the house) and beset me round, some pulling mee one way, some another, tearing my clothes in two or three places, another to make me let goe my hand from the stick with a knife run me into the hand (which to this day a small scar doth witnesse) and certainly had we not been in a publike yard, that party would also have run his knife into my sides; another seeing I would not let goe the stick, tooke hold of it with _Pablo_ and both together thrust it against my mouth, and with such strength that they broke some of my teeth, and filled my mouth with goar blood, with which blow I fell, but soone recovered my selfe and arose, they laughing at me, but not daring to doe me any more harme for feare they should be seen, as God would have seen what already they had done; for a Mulatta slave to a _Spaniard_ in the valley, at that very time when I was down and rising passed by, and hearing me cry out for help to the neighbours (who lived somewhat far off that might helpe and succour me, for all the houses thereabouts were of the brothers the _Fuentes_) came into the yard, and seeing me all in blood thought I had been mortally wounded, and calling them murtherers ran along the street crying murther, murther in _Pablo Fuentes_ his yard, till she came to the Market place and Town-house,

where she found the Maiors and Jurats sitting, & a couple of _Spaniards_, who when they heard of my danger, with drawn swords came presently running with all the officers of Justice to the yard of _Pablo Fuentes_ to aid and assist me; but in the mean while the Idolaters perceiving the outcry of the Mulatta, began to fall away and to hide themselves; _Pablo Fuentes_ going to shut up his house also to absent himselfe, I held him hard to it, striving with him that he might not escape away till some help came unto me. The _Spaniards_ when they came and saw me all in a blood, made furiously to _Pablo Fuentes_ with their naked swords, whom I stopped desiring them not to hurt him, lest what harme they did unto him should be imputed unto me. I wished the Justice not to feare him though he were a rich _Indian_, and as they would answer before the President of _Guatemala_ to lay hold of him, and to carry him to prison, which they presently performed. I made the _Spaniards_ and the Mulatta to witnesse under writing by way of information what they had seen, what blood about my clothes, what wound in my hand, what blow in my mouth they had found, and sent with speed to the President of _Guatemala_ this their information.

The businesse was soon noised about the valley, whereupon most of the _Spaniards_ came to offer their help and aid unto me; _Miguel Dalva_ also chancing to be neer at a _Spaniards_ house in the same valley came with the rest, who would have done that night some mischief among the _Indians_ if I had not prevented them. I desired them to depart and goe home to their houses, telling them I feared nothing, and that _Miguel Dalva_ his company would be guard enough unto me. But they would by no meanes yeeld unto this, saying that night might prove more dangerous unto me then I imagined, and that I needed a stronger guard then of one man alone, for they conceived that the Idolaters knowing what already they had done, and fearing what grievous punishment might be inflicted upon them from the President of _Guatemala_, seeing themselves lost and undone men might desperately that night rescue their brother out of prison, and attempt some mischiefe against me, and so flie away. Which I could not be brought to fear, or to beleeve any such thing of their cowardly spirits, nor that they would flie away for that they had houses and land there in and about the Towne, yet I was willing for one night to yeeld to have a stronger guard of _Spaniards_ then at other times I had had with the Blackmore _Miguel Dalva_ alone.

After supper they kept watch about my house till such time as they perceived all was still, and the _Indians_ a bed, and then they set a watch about the prison that _Pablo Fuentes_ might not be taken out. And after this (pretending that they were in danger as wel as I being but about a dozen, if the Towne should all rise and mutiny by the suggestion of the Idolaters, who most of them were rich and powerfull with the rest, which yet I feared not) they would needs goe and raise up the two Alcaldes or Maiors alone, with two more petty officers to make search about the Town for the rest of the _Fuentes_ and other known Idolaters, that being found they might secure them in the prison to appear at _Guatemala_, and prevented from doing any mischief either that night, or at any other time. With this stir which they made, and their care of mee, they suffered me not to take any rest that night; but went and called up the Alcaldes and two officers and brought them to my house, desiring me to signifie unto them, how fit and necessary it was to search for the rest of the _Indians_.

The poore Alcaldes trembled to see so many _Spaniards_ at that time in my house with naked swords, and durst not but doe what they thought best to be done, and so from my house about midnight they walked about the Towne, searching such houses as they most suspected might conceale any of the _Fuentes_, or of the rest that had been that day in the rebellion and mutiny against mee. They could find none at home, till at last comming to the house of one _Lorenzo Fuentes_, one of the brothers, they found all that had been in the conspiracy against mee, gathered together drinking and quaffing. The house being beset there was no flying nor escaping, and seeing the _Spaniards_ naked swords, they durst not rebell, who doubtlesse (as wee were afterwards informed) would have made a great stirre in the Town that night, and were met together to rescue _Pablo_ their brother, and to doe mee some mischief and flye, not knowing that I was so strongly manned and guarded by the _Spaniards_. There were ten of them, and were presently without any noise in the Town carryed to the Prison, and there shut up, and guarded by the _Spaniards_.

In the morning the President of _Guatemala_ (who then was _Don Juan de Guzman_, a Religious Governour) taking into his consideration what the day before I had writ unto him, and judging my danger to bee great, sent a _Spanish_ Alguazile, or Officer of Justice with a very large Commission to bring Prisoners to the City all those _Indians_ who the day before had been in rebellion against mee, and in case they could not bee found, then to seize upon what goods soever of theirs could be found in _Mixco_. But with the diligence of the _Spaniards_ the night before they were all in a readinesse for him, and paying the Alguazile first his charges (which hee demanded as hee listed) and bearing the charges of _Miguel Dalva_, and two or three more _Spaniards_, who were commanded in the Kings Name to bee aiding and assisting the Officer for the safer carrying them to _Guatemala_, they were horsed and had away that day to the President, who committed them close Prisoners, and afterwards commanded them to be whipped about the streets, banished two of them from _Mixco_ to the Golf of St.

_Thomas de Castilia_, and would have banished them all, had they not humbled themselves, and desired mee to intercede for them, promising to amend their lives, and to make mee great satisfaction, if they might return again to their Town, and that if ever more they did stirre against mee, they would yeeld to be hanged and to lose al their goods. With this the President (fining them yet to pay twenty Crowns a peece to the Church to be imployed in what I should think fittest) sent them back; who, as they had promised, came unto mee, and humbled themselves before mee with much weeping, with many expressions, shewing their sorrow from their hearts for what they had done, casting all upon the Devill, whom they confessed had been great with them in tempting them, whom also now they did abjure and renounce, promising to live as good Christians, and never more to worship any God but one. I was very much taken with their deepe sorrow expressed with many tears, and indeavoured to instruct them in the true knowledge of Christ, whom now I found they were very willing to imbrace.

I lived not very long after in that Towne; but for the time I did continue in it, I found a great change and alteration in their lives, which truly made mee apt to judge that their repentance was unfained. And these former particulars of a few _Indians_ of those two Towns, I have not here inserted to bring an aspersion upon all that Nation, (which I doe very much affect, and would willingly spend the best drops of blood in my veines to doe them good, and to save their soules) but to cause rather pity and commiseration towards them, who after so many yeers preaching have been made as yet but formall and outward Christians, and by the many Saints of wood, which they have been taught to worship by the Preists, have rather been inclined to the superstition and Idolatry of their Forefathers, and to trust to living Creatures, and bow to inanimate stocks and stones, which they daily see performed publickly in their Churches. Certainly they are of a good and flexible nature, and (were those Idols of Saints statues removed from their eyes) might bee brought easily to worship one onely God; and whereas they so willingly lavish out their small meanes and what they labour for, in offerings to the Preists and to their Saints, and in maintaining Lazy singing Lubbars, they without doubt would bee free enough to true Ministers of Gods Word, who should venture their lives to beat down those false Gods, and set up Jesus Christ, and him that sent him into the World to save such as truly beleeve in him.

The yeere that this stirre happened in _Mixco_, I received from _Rome_ from the Generall of the Dominicans Order, License to come home to _England_; at which I rejoyced much, for now I was even weary with living among the _Indians_, & grieved to see the little fruit I reaped amongst them, and that for feare of the Inquisition I durst not preach a new Gospell unto them, which might make them true, reall, and inward Christians; and lastly, for that I perceived that _Antonio Mendez de Satomayor_ (who was Lord of the Towne of _Mixco_) did stomack me for having caused two of his Towne to bee banished, and publikely affronted the _Fuentes_ for their Idolatry, which hee thought was a great aspersion laid upon his _Indians_.

All which well considered I writ unto the Provinciall (who was then in _Chiapa_) of my desire to returne home to mine owne Countrey, for the which I had a licence sent unto me from _Rome_. But he having heard of what good I had done in the Town of _Mixco_, in reducing some Idolaters, burning their idol, and venturing my life in so good a cause; and also for the perfect knowledge which now I had of the _Poconchi_ tongue, would by no meanes yeeld that I should go; but with fair and flattering words incouraged me to stay, where he doubted not, but I did, and I might yet doe God much more good service; and that he might the better worke upon me, he sent me a Patent of Vicar of the Towne and Cloister of _Amatitlan_, where at the present there was a new Cloister a building to separate all that valley from the Cloister of _Guatemala_. He desired me to accept of that small preferment, not doubting but that I speaking so well the _Indian_ language might prevaile much in that place, and better then another, to further the building of that new Cloister; which worke would be a good step for him to advance me afterwards to some better preferment.

Although I regarded neither that present Superiority, nor any better honour which might afterwards ensue unto me, I thought the time which God had appointed for my returning to _England_ was not yet come; for that if the Provinciall, and with him the President of _Guatemala_ (for so much I conjectured out of the Provincialls letter) should both oppose and hinder my departure from that Countrey, it would be very hard for me to take my journey any way, and not be discovered and brought back. Whereupon I resolved to stay the Provincialls coming to _Guatemala_, and there to confer with him face to face, and to shew him some reasons that moved me to leave that Countrey, and to seek againe mine owne wherein I was borne. So for the present I accepted of the Towne of _Amatitlan_, where I had more occasions of getting mony than in the other two, where I had lived five full yeers; for albeit that Towne alone was bigger then both _Mixco_ and _Pinola_ together, and the Church fuller of Saints pictures and statues, and very many Confraternities and Sodalities belonged unto it; besides this from without the Towne I had great comings in from the Ingenio of Sugar, which I related before stood close unto that Towne, from whence I had dayly offerings from the _Black-mores_ and _Spaniards_ that lived in it; and besides this I had under my charge another lesser Towne called St.

_Christoval de Amatitlan_, standing two leagues from great _Amatitlan_. This Town of St. _Christoval_, or _St. Christopher_, is called properly in that language, _Palinha, ha,_ signifying water, and _Pali_, to stand upright, and is compounded of two words which express water standing upright; for the Towne standeth on the back side of the Vulcan of water, which looketh over _Guatemala_, and on this side sendeth forth many fountaines, but especially spouteth forth from a high rock a stream of water, which as it falleth from high with a great noise and down-fall, the rocke standing upright over the bottome where it falleth, and causeth a most pleasant stream by the Townes side, it hath moved the _Indians_ to call their Towne, _Palinha_, from the high and upright standing rock, from whence the water falleth. In this Towne there are many rich _Indians_, who trade in the coast of the South sea; the Towne is as an harbour shadowed with many fruitfull trees; but the chief fruit here is the Pinna, which groweth in every _Indians_ yard, and with the neernesse of the Ingenio of Sugar, are by the _Spaniards_ thereabouts much made up in Preserves; some whole, some in slices, which is the daintiest and most luscious Preserve that I ever did eat in that Countrey. The _Indians_ of this Towne get much by boards of Cedar, which they cut out of many Cedar-trees, which grow on that side of the Vulcan, which they sell to _Guatemala_ and all about the Countrey for new buildings.

Between great _Amatitlan_ and this Town the way is plain, and lieth under a Vulcan of fire, which formerly was wont to smoak as much as that of _Guatemala_, but having formerly burst out at the top, and there opened a great mouth, & cast down to the bottome mighty stones (which to this day are to be seen) it hath not since been any waies troublesome unto the Countrey. In this way there was in my time a new Trapiche of Sugar erecting up by one _John Baptista_ of _Guatemala_, which was thought would prove very usefull, and profitable unto the foresaid City. I had yet for the time that I lived in _Amatitlan_ another very little village at my charge, called _Pampichi_ at the bottome of a high mountaine on the other side of the lake over against it, which was but a Chappell of ease unto great _Amatitlan_, unto which I went not above once in a quarter of a yeer, and that for pastime and recreation; for this village is well in that language a compound also of _Pam_, in, and _Pichi_, flowers, for that it standeth compassed about with flowers, which make it very pleasant, and the boats or Canoa's which doe constantly stand neer the doores of the houses, invites to much pleasure of fishing and rowing about the lake.

And thus whilst I lived in _Amatitlan_ I had the choice of three places wherein to recreate my selfe, and because the charge of many soules lay in my hands, I had one constantly to helpe me. The Towne of _Amatitlan_ was as the Court in respect of the rest, where nothing was wanting that might recreate the mind and satisfie the body with variety and change of sustenance, both for fish and flesh. Yet the great care that did lie upon me in the worke and building of the Cloister, made me very soone weary of living in that great and pleasant Towne; for sometimes I had thirty, sometimes twenty, sometimes fewer, and sometimes fourty worke-men to looke unto, and to pay wages to on Saturday nights, which I found wearied much my braine, and hindred my studies, and was besides a worke which I delighted not in, nor had any hopes ever to enjoy it. And therefore after the first yeer that I had been there I betooke my selfe unto the Provinciall, who was in _Guatemala_, and againe earnestly besought him to peruse the Licence which I had from _Rome_ to goe to _England_ mine owne Countrey for to preach there (for that was the chiefe ground of letting me goe home, as the Generall largely expressed) where I doubted not but I might doe God great service, and in Conscience I told him I thought I was bound to employ what parts God had bestowed upon me, rather upon my own Countreymen, then upon _Indians_ and strangers.

The Provinciall replyed unto me that my Countrey men were Heretickes, and when I came amongst them they would hang me up. I told him, I hoped better things of them, and that I would not behave my selfe among them so as to deserve hanging, not daring to tell him what was in my heart concerning points of Religion. After a long discourse I found the Provinciall inexorable, and halfe angry, telling me that he and that whole Province had cast their eyes upon me, and honoured me, and were ready and willing to promote me further, and that I would shew my selfe very ungratefull unto them, if I should forsake them for my owne nation and people, whom I had not knowne from my young and tender age. I perceived there was no more to be said, and all would be in vaine, and so resolved to take my best opportunity, and with my Licence from _Rome_ to come away unknowne unto him. But for the present I humbly beseeched him to remove me from _Amatitlan_, for that I found my selfe unable to undergoe that great charge, and too weake for that strong worke, that was then building.

With much adoe he would be brought to this, alleadging what an honour it was to be a Founder and builder of a new Cloister, in whose walls my very name would be engraven to posterity; all which I told him I regarded not, but estemed more of my health and a quiet mind, then of such preferments and vanities. Upon which at last he condescended to my request, and gave me order to goe to _Petapa_, and that the Vicar of _Petapa_ should goe to finish the worke of _Amatitlan_. In _Petapa_ I lived above a twelve moneth, with great ease, pleasure and content for all things worldly and outward; but within I had still a worme of Conscience, gnawing this gourd that shadowed and delighted me with worldly contentment. Here I grew more and more troubled concerning some points of Religion, dayly wishing with _David_, that I had the wings of a Dove, that I might flie from that place of dayly Idolatry into _England_, and be at rest. I resolved therefore to put on a good courage, and relie wholly upon my God, knowing that the journey was hard and dangerous, and might bring shame and trouble unto me, if I should be taken in the way flying and brought back to _Guatemala_; here I weighed the affliction and reproach which might ensue unto me, after so much honor, pleasure, and wealth which I had enjoyed for about twelve yeers in that Countrey; but in another balance of better consideration, I weighed the trouble of a wounded Conscience, and the spirituall joy and comfort that I might enjoy at home with the people of God, and so resolutely concluded upon that place of _Heb._ 11.

25, 26, 27. with _Moses_, to choose rather to suffer affliction with the people of God (who as _Paul_ well observeth, I _Thes._ 3. 3. are appointed thereunto; and again _Phil._ 1. 29. unto whom it is given in the behalfe of Christ, not onely to beleeve in him, but also to suffer for his sake) then to enjoy the pleasures of sinne for a season; esteeming the reproach of Christ greater riches then the treasures in _Egypt_. So for faith and a safe conscience I now purposed likewise with _Moses_ to forsake _Egypt_, not fearing the wrath of the President the Kings owne Deputy, nor of the Provinciall, and my best friends; but to indure all this (if I should be taken) as seeing him who is invisible. I thought this was a businesse not to be conferred with flesh and blood, lest the best friend knowing of it should betray me; yet on the other side, I thought it hard to flie alone without some friend for the first two or three daies journey; and besides having many things to sell away to make mony of, I thought I were better to imploy some trusty friend, then to doe all alone.

I thought of none fitter then _Miguel Dalva_, whom by long experience I knew to be true and trusty, and that a small mony matter would content him; whom I sent for to _Pinola_, and charging him with secrecy, I told him I had a journey for my conscience sake to make to _Rome_ (I would not tell him that I intended _England_, lest the good old _Black-more_ should grieve thinking never more to see me, and for the love he bare me, and interest he had many times from me, he should by discovering my intent, seek to stop me) which I would have none to know of but himselfe, not doubting but to returne againe, as he knew many had taken the like journey, and returned within two yeers.

The _Black-more_ offered himselfe to goe with me, which I refused, telling him that the seas would be too hard for his old age to endure, and that as a _Black-more_ in foraine Countries he might be stopped and apprehended for a fugitive; which reason he liked well, and offered himselfe to goe with mee as farre as the sea side; for which I thanked him and employed to sell me away some Mules, Wheat, and Maiz which I had, and what else might well passe through his hands. As for many rich pictures which hung in my chamber, I thought the Towne of _Petapa_ would buy them for their Church, and propounded it unto the Governour, who willingly accepted of them. Most of my bookes, chests, cabinets, quilts, and many good peices of houshold-stuffe, by the paines and industry of _Miguel_ (whom I kept with me for the space of two moneths before I came away) I sold to _Guatemala_, reserving onely two Peraca's or leatherne chests, with some bookes and a quilt for my journey. When I had sold all that I intended, I found I had in _Spanish_ mony neer nine thousand peeces of eight, which I had got in twelve yeers that I lived in that Country.

So much mony I thought would be too combersome for a long journey; whereupon I turned above four thousand of them into pearles and some pretious stones, which might make my carriage the lighter; the rest I laid up some in bags, some I sowed into my quilt, intending in the way to turne them into _Spanish_ Pistols. Thus the chiefe provision being made of mony, I tooke care for Chocolatte and some Conserves for the way, which were soon provided. Now because I considered that my flight the first week must be with speed, and that my chests could not post day and night as my selfe intended to doe; I thought of sending my carriage four dayes at least before me; and not daring to trust any _Indian_ of _Petapa_, I sent to _Mixco_ for one speciall _Indian_ friend whom I had there, who knew the way that I was to travaile very well; to whom I opened my mind, and offered what mony I knew would well content him, and at midnight sent him away with two Mules, one for himselfe, and another for my chests, wishing him to keep on travelling towards _St.

Miguel_, or _Nicaragua_ till I overtooke him. I gave him the advantage of four daies and nights, and then resolutely with my good _Blackmore_ in my company leaving the key of my chamber in my doore, and nothing but old papers within, when all the _Indians_ where fast sleep, I bad adieu unto _Petapa_, and to the whole valley, and to all my friends throughout _America_.

CHAP. XXI.

_Shewing my journey from the Towne of_ Petapa, _into_ England; _and some chiefe passages in the way._

The chiefe thing which troubled me in my resolved purpose to come home, was the choice of the safest way; which made me utterly forsake the Gulfe (though the easiest way of all, and that sea neerest to the place where I lived) for that I knew I should meet there with many of my acquaintance, and the setting out of the ships was so uncertain, that before they departed, order might come from _Guatemala_ to stop me; if I should go by land through _Comayagua_ to _Truxillo_, and there wait for the ships, likewise I feared lest the Governour of that place by some item from the President of _Guatemala_ might examine me, and send me backe, and that the Masters of the ships might have charge given them not to receive me into their ships. If I should goe backe to _Mexico_ and _Vera Cruz_, then I called to mind, how I was troubled in that long journey, when I came first to _Chiapa_ in company of friends, and that now alone I should certainly be much put to it, for I would not carry _Miguel Dalva_ so far by land with me.

Wherefore rejecting these three wayes, I chose the fourth, which was by _Nicaragua_ and the Lake of _Granada_; and therefore I deferred my journey till the week after _Christmas_, knowing that the time of the frigats setting out from that lake to the _Havana_ was commonly after the middle of _January_, or at _Candlemas_ at the furthest, whither I hoped to reach in very good time. Now that I might by no means be suspected to have taken this way; before I went I left by the hand of _Miguel Dalva_ a letter to a friend of his to be delivered to the Provinciall in _Guatemala_, foure dayes after my departure, wherein I kindly tooke my leave of him, desiring him not to blame me nor to seeke after me; and whereas I had a sufficient Licence from _Rome_, and could not get his, that I thought I might with a safe Conscience goe where I was born, leaving Linguists enough to supply my place amongst the _Indians_. And because he should not make enquiry after me by _Nicaragua_, I dated and subscribed my letter to him from the Towne of _St. Antonio Suchutepeques_, which was the way to _Mexico_ and quite contrary to _Nicaragua_.

The next day after _Twelfth_ day, being the seventh of _January_, 1637. at midnight I set out of _Petapa_ upon a lusty Mule (which afterwards in the way I sold for fourscore peeces of eight) with _Miguel Dalva_ alone; and the first part of the way being very hilly we could not goe so fast as our hearts would have posted; for it was breake of day before we could get to the top of the mountaine, which is called _Serro Redondo_, or the round hill; which is much mentioned in that Countrey, for the good pasture there which serveth for the Cattell and Sheep, when the valleys below are burnt and no grasing left for Beasts. This hill is also a great refuge to Travellers, for there they find good entertainment in a _Venta_, where wine and provision is sold, and is a great Lodge, for to lay up dry what carriages they bring; there is besides one of the best Estancia's or farmes of Cattell in the Countrey, where of Goats and Ewes milke is made the best cheese thereabouts.

This round hill or mountaine is five leagues from _Petapa_, where I feared I might meet with some people of _Petapa_, and therefore the day now dawning I made haste by it, leaving in the lodge asleep many _Indians_, who attended on two _Spanish_ Requa's of Mules, which that day were to goe to _Petapa_; foure leagues further from this _Serro Redondo_ is a Towne of _Indians_ called _Los Esclavos_, or the Slaves, not that now they are more slaves then the rest of the _Indians_, but because in the old time of _Montezuma_ the Emperour, and the _Indian_ Kings that were under him, the people of this Towne were more slaves then any other, for from _Amatitlan_ (which is so called from _Amat_, which in the _Mexican_ tongue signifieth Letter, and _Itlan_ which signifieth Towne, for that it was the Towne of Letters as some say, for a rine of a tree, whereon they were wont formerly to write and expresse their minds, or because it was the place whither from all parts letters were sent to be carried about the Countrey, and to _Peru_) these _Indians_ of the Towne of _Esclavo's_ or slaves, were commanded as slaves to goe all about the Countrey with letters, or whatsoever else they should be charged with; and they were bound constantly to send every week so many of their Towne (as were appointed) unto _Amatitlan_, there to wait and attend the pleasure of that Towne for the conveying of letters, or any carriages to other parts.

This Towne of _los Esclavos_ standeth in a bottome by a river, over the which the _Spaniards_ have built a very strong stone Bridge to goe in and out of the Town, for otherwise with mules there is no passing by reason of the violent and rapid streame of the water, and many rocks in the River, from which the water falleth down with great force. From this Town (where wee onely stayed to drink a cup of Chocolatte and to bait our mules) wee went on that day to _Aguachapa_, being ten leagues further, and not farre from the South Sea, and the port called _De la Trinidad_; whither wee came towards Evening, having that day and part of the night travelled about threescore _English_ miles up hils, and upon stony wayes from the _Esclavo's_ unto this Town; which is much mentioned in that Country for two things. The one is for the earthen ware which is made there (as some think) exceeding that of _Mixco_. The other is for a place within a mile and a halfe from the Town, which the _Spaniards_ doe credibly report and beleeve to be a mouth of hell.

For out of it there is constantly ascending a thick black smoak smelling of Brimstone, with some flashes now and then of fire; the earth from whence this smoak ariseth is not high, but low. None ever durst draw nigh to find out the truth and ground of it; for those that have attempted to doe it, have been stricken down to the ground and like to lose their lives. A friend of mine a Fryer (whom I thought verily I might beleeve) upon his oath affirmed unto me, that travelling that way with a Provinciall hee resolved to goe unto the place, and satisfie himselfe of the ground and cause of the strange talke which was every where about the Country concerning that smoke. He went within a quarter of a mile of it, and presently, hee said, he heard a hideous noise, which together with the stench of the fiery smoke and brimstone, struck him into such a fear that he was like to fall to the ground, and retiring himself back with all speed was taken with a burning Feaver, which was like to cost him his life.

Others report that drawing neer unto it, they have heard great cries as it were of men and women in torment, noise of iron, of chaines, and the like, which (how simply I leave it to my Judicious Reader) maketh them beleeve that it is a mouth of hell. Of my knowledge I will say no more, but that I saw the smoke, and asked the _Indians_ what was the cause of it; and if ever they had been neer unto it? And they answered mee, that they could not imagine what might bee the cause of it, neither durst they draw nigh unto it; and that they had seen Travellers, attempting to goe neere it, and that they were all stricken either to the ground, or with some suddaine amazement, or Feaver. I told them that I would walke thither my self, and they desired mee that I would not, if I loved my life. It was not yet for all this report the feare of being so neer the _Spaniards_ hell (as they call it) that made me haste with speed out of that Town, but fear of some messenger that might come after mee to stop my journy.

For at midnight I departed from thence, and went to breake my fast to a great Town called _Chalchuapan_, where the _Indians_ made very much of mee, being _Pocomanes_, who spake the _Poconchi_ or _Pocoman_ tongue which I had learned. They would willingly have had me to stay with them and preach unto them the next Sabbath, which I would have done, had not a better designe called upon mee to make haste.

Here I was troubled, how I should get through St. _Salvador_, which was a City of _Spaniards_, and wherein there was a Cloister of Dominicans, whom I feared most of all, because I was known by some of them. My resolution was therefore when I came neere unto the City, to turn out of my way to a _Spaniards_ Farm as if I had lost my way, and there to delay the time till Evening in drinking Chocolatte, discoursing, and baiting my mules well, that so I might travell all that night, and bee out of the reach of that City, and Fryers (who lived in _Indian_ Towns about it) the next morning, early. This City of St. _Salvador_ is poore, not much bigger then _Chiapa_, and is governed by a _Spanish_ Governour. It standeth forty leagues at least from _Guatemala_, and towards the North Sea side, is compassed with very high mountains, which are called Chuntales, where the _Indians_ are very poore. In the bottome where the City standeth there are some _Trabiches_ of Sugar, some Indigo made, but the chief Farmes are Estancia's of Cattell.

Towards Evening I departed from that Farm where I had well refreshed my selfe and my Mule, and about eight of the clock I rid through the City not being known by any body. My purpose was to bee the next morning at a great River, called _Rio de Lempa_, some ten leagues from St. _Salvador_, for within two leagues of it there lived in an _Indian_ Town a Fryer belonging to the Cloister of St. _Salvador_ who knew mee very well. But such haste I made that before break of the day I passed through that Town, and before seven of the clock I was at the River, where I found my _Indian_ of _Mixco_ ready to passe over with my carriage, who that morning by three of the clock had set out of that Town two leagues off. I was not a little glad to have overtaken my Chests, wherein was most of my treasure. There I sate down a while by the River whilst my mules grazed, and my _Indian_ struck fire and made me Chocolatte. This River of _Lempa_ is held the broadest, and biggest in all the Jurisdiction belonging unto _Guatemala_; there are constantly two Ferry Boats to passe over the Travellers, and their Requa's of Mules.

This River is privileged in this manner, that if a man commit any hainous crime or murther on this side of _Guatemala_, and _San Salvador_, or on the other side of St. _Miguel_, or _Nicaragua_, if hee can flie to get over this River, he is free as long as hee liveth on the other side, and no Justice on that side whither hee is escaped can question or trouble him for the murther committed. So likewise for Debts hee cannot bee arrested. Though I thanked God I neither fled for the one, or for the other, yet it was my comfort that I was now going over to a priviledged Country, where I hoped I should bee free and sure, and that if any one did come after mee, hee would goe no further then to the River of _Lempa_. My Blackmore did much laugh at this my conceipt, and warranted mee that all would doe well. Wee Ferried safely over the River; and from thence went in company with my _Indian_ to a little small Towne of _Indians_ two leagues off, where wee made the best dinner that we had done from the Towne of _Petapa_, and willingly gave rest to all our mules till foure of the clocke in the afternoone; at which time wee set forth to another small Town little above two leagues off, through a plain, sandy, and Champaigne Country.

The next day wee had but ten leagues to travaile to a Town called St. _Miguel_, which belongeth unto _Spaniards_, and though it bee not a City, yet is as bigge almost as _San Salvador_, and hath a _Spanish_ Governour; in it there is one Cloister of Nuns, and another of Mercenarian Fryers, who welcomed mee unto their Cloister. For here I began to shew my face, and to think of selling away the Mule I rid on, being resolved from hence to goe by water or an Arm of the Sea, to a Town in _Nicaragua_ called _La Vieja_. I would here have dismissed my _Indian_, but hee was loth to leave me untill I got to _Granada_, where hee desired to see mee shipped. I refused not his kind offer, because I knew hee was trusty and had brought my Chests well thither, and knew well the way to _Granada_. So I sent him by land to _Realejo_, or to _La Vieja_, which stand very neere together and thirty leagues by land from St. _Miguel_, and my self stayed that day and till the next day at noon in that Town, where I sold the mule, I rid on, because I knew that from _Realejo_ to _Granada_ I could have of the _Indians_ a Mule for nothing for a dayes journey.

My Blackmores mule I sent also by land with the _Indian_, and the next day went to the Gulfe, being three or foure miles from St. _Miguel_, where that afternoone I tooke Boat with many other passengers, and the next morning by eight in the morning was at _La Vieja_, which journey by land would have taken mee up neere three dayes. The next day my _Indian_ came at night, and wee went to _Realejo_, (as I have observed before) a Haven very weak and unfortified on the South Sea; where if I would have stayed one fortnight I might have taken shipping for _Panama_, to goe from thence to _Portabelo_, and there stay for the Galeons from _Spain_. But I considered that the Galeons would not be there till _June_ or _July_, and that so I should be at great charges in staying so long. But afterwards I wished I had accepted of that occasion, for I was at last forced to goe to _Panama_, and _Portabelo_. From hence to _Granada_ I observed nothing, but the plainnesse and pleasantnesse of the way, which with the fruits and fertility of all things may well make _Nicaragua_ the Paradise of _America_.

Betweene _Realejo_ and _Granada_ standeth the City of _Leon_, neere unto a _Vulcan_ of fire, which formerly burst out at the top, and did much hurt unto all the Country about; but since that it hath ceased, and now letteth the Inhabitants live without feare. Sometimes it smokes a little, which sheweth that as yet there is within some sulphurous substance.

Here it was that a Mercenarian Fryer thought to have discovered some great treasure, which might inrich himselfe and all that Country, being fully perswaded that the metall that burned within that _Vulcan_ was Gold; whereupon hee caused a great Kettle to bee made, and hung at an iron chain to let it down from the top, thinking therewith to take up gold enough to make him Bishop and to inrich his poor kindred. But such was the power and strength of the fire within, that no sooner had hee let downe the Kettle, when it fell from the chain and from his hands being melted away.

This City of _Leon_ is very curiously built, for the chief delight of the Inhabitants consisteth in their houses, and in the pleasure of the Country adjoyning, and in the abundance of all things for the life of man, more then in any extraordinary riches, which there are not so much injoyed, as in other parts of _America_. They are contented with fine gardens, with variety of singing birds, and parrets, with plenty of fish and flesh, which is cheap, and with gay houses, and so lead a delicious, lazy and idle life; not aspiring much to trade and traffique, though they have neer unto them the Lake, which commonly every yeere sendeth forth some Frigats to _Havana_ by the North Sea, and _Realejo_ on the South Sea, which to them might bee very commodious for any dealing and rich Trading in _Peru_, or to _Mixco_, if their spirits would carry them so farre: The Gentlemen of this City are almost as vaine and phantasticall as are those of _Chiapa_. And especially from the pleasure of this City, is all that Province of _Nicaragua_, called by the _Spaniards Mahomets_ Paradise.

From hence the way is plain and Levell to _Granada_, whither I got safely and joyfully, hoping that now I had no more journey to make by land, till I should land at _Dover_ in _England_, and from thence post up to _London_. Two dayes after I had arrived at this place and rested my selfe, and injoyed the pleasant prospect of the Lake, I began to think of dismissing my _Indian_ and Blackmore. But true and faithfull _Miguel Dalva_ would by no meanes leave mee, till he saw me shipped; and that I had no more need of him by land; Likewise the _Indian_ would willingly have stayed, but by no meanes I would permit him, for that I considered hee had a wife and children to looke to at home. Hee was as willing to return a foot, as to ride, because hee would have mee sell my mules, and make what mony I could of them; but I seeing the good nature of the _Indian_, would recompence his love with as much mony as might bee more beneficiall to him, then a tired Mule; which might have dyed in the way under him, and left him on foot; so I gave him money enough to bear his charges home, and to hire Mules at his one pleasure, and some to spare, when he came home.

The _Indian_ with many teares falling from his eyes, saying, hee feared hee should never more see mee, tooke his leave of mee the third day after wee arrived at _Granada_. My Blackmore and I being left alone, first began to thinke of selling away the two Mules, which had brought thither the _Indian_, and my Chests; for which I got fourscore and ten peeces of eight after so long a journey, and thought they were well sold. I would have had _Miguel_ have sold away that whereon hee rid, (which was his own) and offered to buy him another that might better carry him back, but the loving and carefull Blackmore would not suffer mee to bee at such charges, considering the long journey which I was to make. After this, wee hearing that the frigats were not like to depart in a fortnight, thought of viewing well that stately and pleasant Towne a day or two, and then to betake our selves to some neer _Indian_ Town, where wee might bee hid, (lest by the great resort of Requa's of Mules, which at that time brought Indigo and Cochinill from _Guatemala_ to the Frigats, wee should bee discovered) and might now and then come to the Town to treat concerning my passing in one of the Frigats to the _Havana_ or to _Carthagena_.

What in that Town wee observed was, two Cloisters of Mercenarian and Franciscan Fryers, and one of Nuns, very rich; and one Parish Church, which was as a Cathedrall, for the Bishop of _Leon_ did more constantly reside there then in the City. The houses are fairer then those of _Leon_, and the Town of more Inhabitants, among whom there are some few Merchants of very great wealth, and many of inferiour degree very well to passe, who trade with _Carthagena, Guatemala, San Salvador_, and _Comayagua_, and some by the South sea to _Peru_ and _Panama_. But at this time of the sending away the frigats, that Town is one of the wealthiest in all the North Tract of _America_; for the Merchants of _Guatemala_ fearing to send all their goods by the Gulfe of _Honduras_, for that they have been often taken by the _Hollanders_ between that and _Havana_, think it safer to send them by the frigats to _Carthagena_, which passage hath not been so much stopped by the _Hollanders_ as the other. So likewise many times the Kings treasure, and revenues (when there is any report of ships at sea, or about the Cape of _St.

Anthony_) are this way by the Lake of _Granada_ passed to _Carthagena_. That yeer that I was there, before I betooke my selfe to an _Indian_ Towne, in one day there entred six Requa's (which were at least three hundred Mules) from _St. Salvador_ and _Comayagua_ onely, laden with nothing else but Indigo, Cochinil and Hides; and two dayes after from _Guatemala_ came in three more, the one laden with silver, which was the Kings tribute from that Countrey; the other with Sugar, and the other with Indigo. The former Requa's I feared not; but the latter made me keep close within my lodging, lest going abroad, I should be knowne by some of those that came from _Guatemala_; who after they had delivered what they brought, presently departed, and with their departure set mee at liberty, who for their sakes was a voluntary prisoner within mine owne lodging. But fearing lest more of these Requa's might come and affright mee, I went to a Towne out of the rode, a league from _Granada_, and took my pleasure up and downe the Countrey where I was much feasted by the Mercenarian Friers, who enjoy most of those Towns.

Amongst these I heard much of the passage in the frigots to _Carthagena_, which did not a little dishearten and discourage me. For although, whilst they saile upon the Lake, they goe securely and without trouble, yet when they fall from the Lake to the river (which there they call _El Desaguadero_) to goe out to the Sea, _hic labor, hoc opus est_, here is nothing but trouble, which sometimes makes that short voyage to last two moneths; for such is the fall of the waters in many places amongst the rockes, that many times they are forced to unlade the frigots, and lade them again with helpe of Mules which are there kept for that purpose, by a few _Indians_ that live about the river, and have care of the Lodges made for to lay in the wares, whilest the frigots passe thorow those dangerous places to another Lodge, whither the wares are brought by Mules, and put againe into the frigots. Beside this trouble (which must needs be tedious to a passenger, to be thus stopped, who would willingly come soone to his journeys end) the abundance of gnats is such, which maketh him to take no joy in his voiage, and the heat in some places so intolerable, that many doe die before they get out to the sea.

Though all this was terrible to me to hear, yet I comforted my selfe that my life was in the hands of the Lord, and that the frigots did commonly every yeer passe that way, and seldome any were lost. I went now and then to _Granada_ to bargaine for my passage, and to know when the frigots would for certaine set out, and to provide my selfe of some dainties and Chocolatte for my journey, having agreed with a Master of a frigot for my diet at his table. The time was appointed within foure or five dayes; but suddainly all was crossed with a strict command from _Guatemala_, that the frigots should not goe out that yeer, because the President and whole Court was informed for certaine that some _English_ or _Holland_ ships was abroad at sea, and lay about the mouth of the river or _Desaguadero_ waiting for the frigots of _Granada_, and that the said were sometimes lurking about the Islands of _St. John_, and _St. Catharine_ (which then was our _Providence_) which made all the Merchants of the Countrey to feare and sweat with a cold sweat, and the President to be carefull for the Kings revenues, lest the losse of them should be imputed to his wilfull negligence, in stopping the frigots, whilst he might, and had warning given.

This was but sad newes unto me, who knew not for the present, which way to dispose of my selfe. I began to thinke of the ship that was at _Realejo_ ready to set out to _Panama_, thinking that would now be my best course, but enquiring after it, I was for certaine informed by some Merchants that it was newly gone. Then my eyes looked upon _Comayagua_ and _Truxillo_, and upon the ships of _Honduras_, but these were but vaine and troubled thoughts, arising from a perplexed heart, for the ships were also gone from thence, without some small vessell or frigot might be there with newes from _Havana_ or _Carthagena_ (for those places send often word and notice of what ships are abroad at sea) but this also was a meer chance, and not to be trusted unto, as my friends did advise, and counsell me. Whereupon my perplexity more and more increased; onely my comfort was that there were more passengers besides my selfe, who I knew must take some course, and whom I also resolved to follow by sea, or land.

Amongst us all we were once resolving to hire a frigot to carry us onely to _Carthagena_, but this would not bee granted, for no body would hazard his vessel and life for our sakes. Whilest we were thus distressed and perplexed enquiring about _Granada_ of the Merchants what course we might take to get to _Spaine_ that yeer, or to meet with the _Havana_ or _Carthagena_, one that wished us well, counselled us to goe to _Costarica_, where at _Carthago_ we should be sure to hear of some vessels bound for _Portobel_, either from the river called _de los Anzuelos_, or from the river called _Suere_, from whence every yeer went out some small frigots to carry Meale, Bacon, Fowles, and other provision for the Galeons to _Portobel_. This we thought was a hard and difficult journey, and of neer a hundred and fifty leagues, over mountaines and through desarts, where we should misse the pleasure, variety, and dainties of _Guatemala_ and _Nicaragua_, and after all this peradventure might misse of an opportunity of any frigot bound to _Portobelo_.

Yet so unwilling were we all to returne to _Guatemala_ from whence we came, that we would rather go forward, and undergoe any difficulties, so that at last we might find any shipping to convey us where we might meet with the Galeons, which we knew were not to come to _Portobel_, till the month of _June_ or _July_. We therefore agreed foure of us, three _Spaniards_ and my selfe, to goe to _Costarica_, and there to trie our fortune. They had each of them (as my selfe had) carriage for one Mule, and none to ride on; but thought it their best way to buy each of them a Mule to carry them, which they hoped after their journey to sell againe at _Costarica_, and to get mony by them, and for their carriages to hire Mules and _Indians_ from Towne to Towne, who also might serve to guide us through many dangerous places and passages, which we understood were in the way. Now I wished I had my Mule which I sold at _San Miguel_, or any one of the two which I sold before in _Granada_.

But for my mony I doubted not, with the helpe of my _Black-more_, but I should find one for my purpose. I furnished my selfe very speedily, for fifty peeces of eight, of one which I feared not would performe my journey. My good and trusty _Black-more_ would willingly have gone on with me, and further round the world if I would have permitted him; but I would not; but (thanked him heartily for what he had done, and gave him money enough in his purse, and dismissed him) hoping that the company of the three _Spaniards_ would be sufficient comfort unto me.

Thus with one _Indian_ to guide us we set four of us out of _Granada_, enjoying for the two first daies more of the pleasure of that _Mahomets_ paradise _Nicaragua_, finding the way for the most part plain, the Townes pleasant, the Countrey shady, and every where fruits abounding. The second day after we set out, we were much affrighted with a huge and monstrous Caiman or Crocodile, which having come out of the Lake (which we passed by) and lying crosse a puddle of water bathing himselfe, and waiting for some prey, as we perceived after, whom we not knowing well at the first, but thinking that it had been some tree that was felled or fallen, passed close by it; when on a suddain we knew the scales of the Cayman, and saw the monster stir and move, and set himself against us; wherewith we made hast from him; but he thinking to have made some of us his greedy prey, ran after us, which when we perceived, and that he was like to overtake us, we were much troubled, untill one of the _Spaniards_ (who knew better the nature & quality of that Beast then the rest) called upon us to turn on one side out of the way, and to ride on straight for a while, and then to turn on another side; and so to circumflex our way, which advice of his without doubt saved mine, or some of the others lives, for thus we wearied that mighty monster and escaped from him, who (had we rid out straightway) had certainly overtaken us, and killed some mule or man, for his straight forward flight was as swift as our Mules could run; but whilst he turned and wheeled about his heavy body, we got ground and advantage till we left him far behind us; and by this experience we came to know the nature and

quality of that beast, whose greatnesse of body is no hinderance to run forward as swift as a Mule; but otherwise, as the Elephant once laid down is troubled to get up, so this monster is heavy and stiffe, and therefore much troubled to turne and wind about his body. We praised God who had that day delivered us, and riding for a while by the side of the lake, we were watchful that we might not fall again into the like danger. But the greatnesse of this lake of _Granada_ may from hence be knowne, in that the second and third day of our journey, being at least threescore miles from whence we set out, we now and then found our way lying by it. After that wee had wholly lost the sight of it, we began to enter into rough and craggy wayes, declining more to the South then to the North sea. And in all the rest of our journey to _Carthago_, we observed nothing worth committing to posterity, but onely mighty woods and trees on the South sea side, very fit for to make strong ships, and many mountaines and desert places, where we lay sometimes two nights together, either in woods or open fields, far from any Town or habitation of _Indians_, yet for our comfort in these so desert places we had stil a guide with us, and found lodges, which by the command of the neerest Justices had been set up for such as travelled that way.

We came at last through thousand dangers to the city of _Carthago_, which we found not to be so poor as in richer places, as _Guatemala_ and _Nicaragua_ it was reported to be. For there we had occasion to inquire after some Merchants for exchange of gold and silver, and wee found that some were very rich, who traded by Land and Sea with _Panama_, and by Sea with _Portobelo, Carthagena_, and _Havana_, and from thence with _Spain_. This City may consist of foure hundred Families, and is governed by a _Spanish_ Governour; It is a Bishops Sea, and hath in it three Cloisters, two of Fryers, and one of Nuns. Here we began to enquire after that which had brought us through so many Mountaines, Woods and deserts, to wit, after some speedy occasion of shipping our selves for _Portobelo_ or _Carthagena_; and according to our desires wee understood of one Frigat almost ready to set out from the River called _De los Anzuelos_, and another from the River _Suere_; and being well informed that _Suere_ would bee the best place for us to Travaile unto by reason of more provision in the way, more Towns of _Indians_, and Estancia's of _Spaniards_, we resolved within foure dayes after wee had rested in _Carthago_, to undertake a new journey towards the North Sea.

Wee found that Country mountainous in many places, yet here and there some Valleys where was very good corn, _Spaniards_ living in good Farmes, who as well as the _Indians_ bred many hogs; but the Townes of _Indians_ we found much unlike to those which wee had left behind in _Nicaragua_ and _Guatemala_; and the people in curtesie and civility much differing from them, and of a rude and bold carriage and behaviour towards us; yet they are kept under by the _Spaniards_, as much as those whom I have formerly spoken of about _Guatemala_. Wee came in so good a time to the River _Suere_, that wee stayed there but three dayes in a _Spanish_ Farm neere unto it, and departed.

The Master of the Frigat was exceeding glad of our company, and offered to carry mee for nothing, but for my prayers to God for him, and for a safe passage; which hee hoped would not bee above three or four daies sailing. What hee carried was nothing but some Hony, Hides, Bacon, meal and fowles. The greatest danger he told us of, was the setting out from the River, (which runs in some places with a very strong stream, is shallow and full of rocks in other places) till wee come forth to the maine Sea. Whither we got out safely and had not sailed on above twenty leagues, when we discovered two ships making towards us; our hearts began to quake, and the Master himselfe of the Frigat wee perceived was not without feare, who suspected that they were _English_, or _Holland_ Ships; wee had no guns nor weapons to fight with, save onely foure or five Muskets and half a dozen Swords; wee thought the wings of our nimble Frigat might be our best comfort, and flying away our chiefest safety.

But this comfort soon began to fail us, and our best safety was turned into neer approaching danger; for before wee could flie on five leagues towards _Portobel_, wee could from our Top Mast easily perceive the two Ships to be _Hollanders_, and too nimble for our little Vessell, which presently one of them (which being a Man of Warre, was too much and too strong for our weaknesse) fetcht up, and with a thundring Message made us strike Saile. Without any fighting wee durst not but yeeld, hoping for better mercy. But O what sad thoughts did here run to and fro my dejected heart, which was struck down lower then our Saile? How did I sometimes look upon Deaths frighting visage? But if again I would comfort and incourage my selfe against this feare of Death; how then did I begin to see an end of all my hopes of ever more returning to my wished and desired Country? How did I see that my treasure of Pearles, pretious Stones, and peeces of Eight, and golden Pistols, which by singing I had got in twelve yeers space, now within one halfe houre ready to be lost with weeping, and become a sure prey to those who with as much ease as I got them, and with laughing were ready to spoile mee of all that with the sound of Flutes, Waits and Organs I had so long been hording up?

Now I saw I must forcedly and fainedly offer up to a _Hollander_ what superstitious, yea also forced and fained offerings of _Indians_ to their Saints of _Mixco, Pinola, Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_ had for a while enriched mee. My further thoughts were soone interrupted by the _Hollanders_ who came abord our Frigat with more speed then wee desired. Though their Swords, Muskets and Pistols did not a little terrifie, yet wee were somewhat comforted, when wee understood who was their chief Captaine and Commander, and hoped for more mercy from him, who had been born and brought up amongst _Spaniards_, then from the _Hollanders_, who as they were little bound unto the _Spanish_ Nation for mercy, so did wee expect little from them. The Captain of this _Holland_ Ship which took us was a Mulatto, born and bred in _Havana_, whose Mother I saw and spoke with afterwards that same yeer, when the Galeons struck into that Port to expect there the rest that were to come from _Vera Cruz_. This Mulatto for some wrongs which had been offered unto him from some commanding _Spaniards_ in the _Havana_, ventured himself desperately in a boat out to the Sea, where were some _Holland_ Ships waiting for a prize, and with Gods helpe getting unto them, yeelded himself to their mercy, which hee esteemed farre better then that of his own Country-men, promising to serve them faithfully against his owne Nation, which had most injuriously and wrongfully abused, yea and (as I was afterwards informed) whipped him in the _Havana_.

This Mulatto proved so true and faithful in his good services unto the _Hollanders_, that they esteemed much of him, marryed him to one of their Nation, and made him Captain of a Ship under that brave and gallant _Hollander_ whom the _Spaniards_ then so much feared, and named, _Pie de Palo_, or Woodden Leg. This famous Mulatto it was that with his Sea Souldiers borded our Frigat, in the which hee had found little worth his labour, had it not been for the _Indians_ offerings which I carryed with mee, of which I lost that day the worth of four thousand Patacons or peeces of eight in pearles, and pretious stones, and neer three thousand more in money. The other _Spaniards_ lost some hundreds a peece, which was so rich a prize, that it made the _Hollanders_ stomach loath the rest of our grosse provision of Bacon, Meale and Fowles, and our money tasted sweeter unto them, then the Hony which our Frigat also afforded them. Other things I had (as a Quilt to lie on, some Bookes, and Lamina's, which are pictures in brasse, and clothes) which I begged of that Noble Captaine the Mulatto, who considering my Orders and calling, gave mee them freely, and wished me to bee patient, saying that hee could doe no otherwise then he did with my mony and Pearles, and using that common Proverbe at Sea, _Oy por mi, manana por ti_, to day fortune hath been for mee, to morrow it may bee for thee: or to day I have got what to morrow I may lose again.

Here I made use also of that common saying, that il gotten goods never thrive, and perceived it was the will of my heavenly Father to take from me what so unlawfully by superstitious and idolatrous Masses, by Offerings unto Idols and Statues of Saints I had got amongst the _Indians_. I offered in lieu of those former offerings my will unto my Lord Gods will, desiring him to grant mee patience to bear that great losse. I confesse, though it was very crosse to flesh and blood, yet I found an inward spirituall strengthning from above, and to be very true what _Paul_ writes to the _Hebrews_ in the 12 Chapter, and Verse 11. saying, _No chastening for the present seemeth to bee joyous, but grievous; neverthelesse afterward it yeeldeth the peaceable fruit of righteousnesse unto them which are exercised thereby_: for that very day I found my inward man quiet and peaceable with a full and totall submission unto the holy will of God, which I desired might bee done in earth, in the Sea, and performed and obeyed by me at that present, as it is alwayes done in heaven.

And although this was my best and chief comfort, yet from the creature by the Creators permission I had also some comfort left in a few pistols, some single, some double, which I had sowed up in my Quilt (which the Captain restored unto mee, saying it was the bed I lay in) and in the doublet which I had at that present, which mounted to almost a thousand Crownes, and in their searching was not found out. After the Captain and Souldiers had well viewed their prize, they thought of refreshing their stomacks with some of our provision; the good Captaine made a stately dinner in our Frigat, and invited mee unto it, and knowing that I was going towards the _Havana_, besides many other brindi's or healths, hee drank one unto his mother, desiring mee to see her, and to remember him unto her, and how that for her sake hee had used mee well and courteously in what hee could; and further at Table hee said that for my sake hee would give us our Frigat that wee might return again to land, and that I might find out from thence some safer way and means to get to _Portobelo_, & to continue on my journey unto _Spain_.

After dinner I conferred with the Captain alone, and told him that I was no _Spaniard_, but an _English_ man born, shewing him the Licence which I had from _Rome_ to goe to _England_, and that therefore I hoped, not being of an enemy nation to the _Hollanders_, he would restore unto me what goods were mine. But all this was of little consequence with him, who had already taken possession of mine, and all other goods in the ship: he told me, I must suffer with those, amongst whom I was found, and that I might as wel claime all the goods in the ship for mine. I desired him then to carry me along with him to _Holland_, that from thence I might get to _England_, which also he refused to doe, telling me that he went about from one place to another, and knew not when he should goe to _Holland_, and that he was daily ready to fight with any _Spanish_ ship, and if he should fight with the _Spaniards_ whilst I was in his ship, his souldiers in their hot blood might be ready to doe me a mischiefe, thinking I would doe them harm, if in fight they should be taken by the _Spaniards_.

With these his answers I saw there was no hope of getting againe what now was lost, therefore (as before) I commended my selfe againe to Gods providence and protection. The Souldiers and Mariners of the _Holland_ ship, made hast that afternoone, to unlode the goods of our Frigat into their Man of warre, which tooke them up that, and part of the next day, whilst we as prisoners were wafting up and down the sea with them. And whereas we thought our mony had satisfied them enough, and to the full, we found the next day that they had also a stomack to our fowles and Bacon, and wanted our Meale to make them bread, and our hony to sweeten their mouthes, and our Hydes for shooes and bootes; all which they tooke away, leaving me my Quilt, Bookes, and brasse pictures, and to the Master of the frigat some small provision, as much as might carry us to land, which was not far off, and thus they tooke their leaves of us, thanking us for their good entertainment.

And we weary of such guests, some praying to God that they might never entertaine the like againe, some cursing them all, and especially the Mulatto to hell, calling him Renegado; some thanking God for their lives which were given them for a prey, we all returned again to _Suere_ from whence we had set out, and going up the river, were almost like to bee cast away, and lose our lives, after we had lost our goods. When we came to land, the _Spaniards_ about the Countrey pitied our case, and helped us with almes gathering a Collection for us. The three _Spaniards_ of my company lost all their mony and most of their best clothes, yet they had reserved some bills of Exchange for money to be taken up at _Portobelo_; which I wished I had also for what I had lost. For the present we knew not what course to take; we thought of going to _Rio de los Anzuelos_, but we were informed that certainly the frigats there were either gone, or would be gone before we could get thither; and if they stayed not with the newes of the _Hollanders_ ships at sea, they either already were or would be their prize, as we had been.

We resolved therefore with the charitable assistance of the _Spaniards_ about the Countrey to returne again to _Carthago_, and from thence to take some better directions. In the way we conferred what we had saved, the _Spaniards_ bragged yet of their bills of Exchange, which would yeeld them mony at _Carthago_, I would not let them know what I had saved, but somewhat I told them I had kept; and we agreed all the way we went to signifie nothing but poverty and misery, that the _Indians_ and _Spaniards_ in the way might pitty and commiserate us, and our great losses. When we came to _Carthago_ we were indeed much pittied, and Collections were made for us; and as it was expected from mee, that I should sing againe at the Altars (who truely could rather have cried to see and consider my many misfortunes and disasters, which I desired might at last by a safe returne to _England_, prove the trials of the faith I intended to search out) and that I should preach wheresoever I came; so by these two waies, of singing and of hudling over _Dominus vobiscum_ and the rest of the Masse, and by accepting of what Sermons were recommended unto me, I began againe to store my selfe with monies.

Yet I knew that in such a poore Countrey as that was, where I was little knowne, I could not possibly get enough to bring me home with credit into _England_, and therefore the cunning enemy finding me to stand upon my credit, began strongly to tempt me to returne againe to _Guatemala_ (where I doubted not but I should be welcomed and entertained by my friends) and to settle my selfe there, untill I had againe by sacrilegious, base, superstitious, and idolatrous means, and works, made up a new purse to returne with credit home.

But I perceiving that God already had shewed himselfe angry, and justly taken from me, what by unlawfull meanes I had in twelve yeers obtained, bad Satan avaunt, purposing never more to returne to the flesh pots of _Egypt_, and to goe still home-wards, though in the way I did beg my bread. Yet (lest I might be suspected amongst the _Spaniards_, and troubled for not exercising my orders and function) I resolved to take what as to a stranger and traveller for preaching or any other exercise might be offered unto me.

Thus with courage resolving to goe on still towards _England_, I enquired at _Carthago_ which way I might get to _Portobelo_. But this doore of hope was fast shut up; though my trust in Gods providence was not weakened. In this season, there came to _Carthago_ some two or three hundred Mules unsadled or unloaden with some _Spaniards, Indians_, and _Black-mores_, from the parts of _Comayagua_ and _Guatemala_ to convey them to _Panama_ by land, over the mountaines of _Veragua_ there to be sold. This is the yeerly and onely trading by land, which _Guatemala, Comayagua_, and _Nicaragua_, hath with _Panama_ over that narrow _Isthmus_ lying between the North, and South sea, which is very dangerous by reason of the craggy waies, rockes, and mountaines, but more especially, by reason of many Heathens, Barbarians and savage people, which as yet are not conquered by the _Spaniards_, and sometimes do great hurt and mischief, and kill those that with Mules passe through their Countrey, especially if they misdemean themselves, or please them not well. Yet for all these difficulties, I was entertaining a thought to go along with those Mules and _Spaniards_, which were now on their way by land to _Panama_.

The three _Spaniards_ were halfe of the same mind; but the providence of God who better ordereth and disposeth mans affaires then he himselfe, disappointed these our thoughts for our good and safety, as after we were informed; for we heard for certain at _Nicoya_, that some of those Mules and _Spaniards_ were killed by the _Barbarians_ and savage _Indians_, amongst whom my life might have been lost, if I had attempted that hard and dangerous journey; from which many well wishers at _Carthago_ did disswade me, both for the danger of the _Indians_, and for the difficulties of the waies and mountaines, which they told me the weakenesse of my body would never indure. After we had wholly desisted from this Land journey, the best counsell, that we had from some Merchants our friends, was to try whether _Mar del Zur_, or the South sea, would favour our designe and journey, better then the _Mar del Norte_, or the North sea had done; who wished us to goe to _Nicoya_, and from thence to _Chira_, and to the _Golfo de Salinas_, where they doubted not but we should find shipping to _Panama_.

Wee were willing to follow any good advise and counsell; yet we knew that this was the last shift which we could make, and the _non plus ultra_ of our hopes, and that if here we should be disappointed, we could expect no other way ever to get to _Panama_, except we should venture our lives most desperately over the mountaines of _Veragua_, and by land without any guide or company through the Countrey of the Barbarians, (who before had slaine some _Spaniards_ passing that way) or else should returne againe, all the way that we had come, to _Realejo_, where our hopes might be frustrated, and peradventure no shipping found for _Panama_, without a yeers waiting for it.