Chapter 6 of 15
Chapter I. · Part 5
The English-American, His Travail by Sea and Land: or, A New Survey of the West-India's · Thomas Gage
The story was thus, which may be profitable for other nations, to beware of covetous governours, and proud Prelates; and therefore I thought fit to insert it here. The Count of _Gelves_ was in some things one of the best Viceroys and Governours that ever the Court of _Spaine_ sent to _America_, for he was called by the _Spaniards, el terrible Justiciero, y fuego de Ladrones_, that is, terrible for Justice, and fire to consume all theeves. For he cleered all the high waies of theeves, hanging them as often as they were caught without mercy, and did send out troopes and officers to apprehend them, so that it was generally reported that since the conquest unto those dayes of his there had never been so many theeves and malefactors hanged up as in his time. So in all other points of justice he was severe and upright. But yet covetousnesse did so blind him to see his owne injustice, that before he could see it, he had brought the City of _Mexico_ and the whole Kingdome to a danger of rebellion.
What he would not to be seen in himselfe, he acted by others his instruments. And one of them was one _Don Pedro Mexia_, a mighty rich Gentleman of _Mexico_, whom hee chose to joyne with him in monopolizing all the _Indian_ Maiz, and wheat about the Countrey. _Don Pedro Mexia_ of the _Indians_ bought at the price he list their Maiz, and the wheat of the _Spaniards_ he bought it according to that price at which it is taxed by the law of that land to be sold at in time of famine; which is at fourteen Rials a bushell, (which is not much there considering the abundance of gold and silver) at which price the Farmers and husbandmen knowing it to be a plentiful yeer were glad and willing to sel unto him their wheat, not knowing what the end would be, & others fearing to gainsay him, whom they knew to be the Viceroyes favorite. Thus _Don Pedro Mexia_ filled all his barnes which he had hired about the Countrey, and himselfe and the Viceroy became owners of all the wheat.
He had his officers appointed to bring it into the Markets upon his warning, and that was when some smal remnants that had escaped his fingers were sold, and the price raised. Then hoised he his price, and doubled it above what it had cost him. The poore began to complaine, the rich to murmure, the taxe of the law was moved in the Court of Chancery before the Viceroy. But he being privy to the Monopoly expounded the law to bee understood in time of famine, and that he was informed, that it was as plentifull a yeer as ever had been, and that to his knowledge there was as much brought into the Markets as ever had been, and plenty enough for _Mexico_ and all the Countrey. Thus was the law slighted, the rich mocked, the poore oppressed, and none sold wheat but _Don Pedro Mexia_ his officers for himselfe and the Viceroy. When Justice would be no father, the people go to their mother the Church; & having understood the businesse better, and that it was _Don Pedro Mexia_, who did tyrannnize and oppresse them with the Viceroy his favour, they intreat the Archbishop to make it a case of Conscience, and to reduce it to a Church censure.
_Don Alonso de Zerna_ the Archbishop, who had alwaies stomacked _Don Pedro Mexia_ and the Viceroy, to please the people, granted to them to excommunicate _Don Pedro Mexia_, and so sent out bils of excommunication to be fixed upon all the Church dores against _Don Pedro_; who not regarding the excommunication, and keeping close at home, and still selling his wheat, raising higher the price then it was before; the Arch-bishop raised this censure higher against him, adding to it a Bill of _Cessatio à divinis_, that is, a cessation from all divine service. This Censure is so great with them, that it is never used but for some great mans sake, who is contumacious and stubborn in his waies, contemning the power of the Church. Then are all the Church dores shut up, (let the City be never so great) no masses are said, no prayers used, no preaching permitted, no meetings allowed for any publike devotion or calling upon God. Their Church mournes as it were, and makes no shew of spirituall joy and comfort, nor of any communion of prayers one with another, so long as the partie continues stubborn and rebellious in his sinne, and scandall, and in yeelding to the Churches censure.
And further whereas by this cessation _à divinis_, many Churches and especially Cloisters suffer in the means of their livelyhood, who live upon what is daily given them for the Masses they say, and in a Cloister where thirty or fourty Preists say Masse, so many peices of Eight or crowns in _Mexico_ doe daily come in; therefore this censure or _cessatio à divinis_ is so inflicted upon the whole Church (all suffering for it as they say in spirituall, and some in temporall waies) that the party offending or scandalizing, for whose sake this curse is laid upon all, is bound to satisfie all Preists and Cloisters which in the way aforesaid suffer, and to allow them so much out of his meanes, as they might have daily got by selling away their Masses for so many crownes for their daily livelyhood. To this would the Arch-bishop have brought _Don Pedro Mexia_, to have emptied out of his purse neer a thousand crownes daily, towards the maintenance of about a thousand Preists (so many there may bee in _Mexico_) who from the Altar sell away their bread-God to satisfie with bread and food their hungry stomackes.
And secondly by the peoples suffering in their spirituall comfort, and non-communion of prayers and idolatrous worship, hee thought to make _Don Pedro Mexia_ odious to the people. _Don Pedro_ perceiving the spightfull intents of the Archbishop, and hearing the outcries of the people in the streets against him, and their cries for the use and liberty of their Churches, secretly retired himselfe to the Palace of the Viceroy, begging his favour and protection, for whose sake he suffered. The Viceroy immediately sent out his Orders, commanding the bills of excommunication and cessation _à divinis_ to bee pulled from the Church dores, and to all the Superiors of the Cloisters to set open their Churches, and to celebrate their service and masses as formerly they had done. But they disobeying the Viceroy through blind obedience to their Archbishop, the Viceroy commanded the Arch-prelate to revoke his censures. But his answer was that what he had done, had been justly done against a publike offender and great oppressor of the poore, whose cries had moved him to commiserate their suffering condition, and that the offenders contempt of his first excommunication had deserved the rigour of the second censure; neither of the which hee would or could revoke untill _Don Pedro Mexia_ had submitted himselfe to the Church and to a publike absolution, and had satisfied the Preists and Cloisters who suffered for him, and had disclaimed that unlawfull and unconscionable Monopolie, wherewith he wronged the whole common-wealth, and especially the poorer sort therein.
Thus did that proud Prelate arrogantly in termes exalt himselfe against the the authority of his Prince and Ruler, contemning his command with a flat deniall, thinking himself happy in imitating _Ambrose_ his spirit against the Emperour _Theodosius_, trusting in the power of his keyes, and in the strength of his Church and Clergy, which with the rebellion of the meaner sort he resolved to oppose against the power and strength of his Magistrate. The Viceroy not brooking this sawcy answer from a Preist, commanded him presently to be apprehended and to be guarded to _St. John de Ulhua_, and there to be shipped for _Spaine_. The Archbishop having notice of this the Viceroy his resolution, retired himselfe out of _Mexico_ to _Guadalupe_ with many of his Preists and Prebends, leaving a bill of excommunication upon the Church dores against the Viceroy himself, and thinking privily to flie to _Spain_ there to give an account of his carriage and behaviour. But he could not flie so fast, but the Viceroy his care and vigilancy still eyed him, and with his Serjeants and Officers pursued him to _Guadalupe_.
Which the Archbishop understanding, he betook himself to the sanctuary of the church, and there caused the candles to be lighted upon the Altar, the sacrament of his Bread-God to be taken out of the Tabernacle, and attiring himselfe with his Pontificall vestiments, with his Mitre on his head, his Crozier in one hand, in the other he took his God of bread, and thus with his traine of Preists about him at the Altar, he waited for the coming of the Serjeants and Officers, whom he thought with his God in his hand, and with a Here I am, to astonish and amaze, and to make them as Christ the Jewes in the garden, to fall backwards, and to disable them from laying hands upon him. The Officers coming into the Church went towards the Altar where the Bishop stood, and kneeling downe first to worship their God made a short prayer; which being ended, they propounded unto the Bishop with courteous and faire words the cause of their coming to that place, requiring him to lay downe the Sacrament; and to come out of the Church, and to heare the notification of what orders they brought unto him in the Kings name.
To whom the Archbishop replied, that whereas their Master the Viceroy was excommunicated he looked upon him as one out of the pale of the Church, and one without any power, or authority to command him in the house of God, and so required them as they tendered the good of their soules to depart peaceably, and not to infringe the priviledges and immunity of the Church, by exercising in it any legall act of secular power and command; and that he would not goe out of the Church, unlesse they durst take him and the Sacrament together. With this the head officer named _Tiroll_, stood up and notified unto him an order in the Kings name to apprehend his person in what place soever he should find him, and to guard him to the Port of _St. John de Ulhua_, and there to deliver him to whom by further order he should be directed there, to be shipped for _Spain_ as a Traitour to the Kings crowne, a troubler of the common peace, an author and mover of sedition in the Common-wealth.
The Arch-bishop smiling upon _Tiroll_ answered him, Thy Master useth too high termes; and words which doe better agree unto himselfe; for I know no mutiny or sedition like to trouble the Common-wealth, unlesse it bee by his and _Don Pedro Mexia_ his oppressing of the poore. And as for thy guarding mee to _St. John de Ulhua_, I conjure thee by Jesus Christ whom thou knowest I hold in my hands, not to use here any violence in Gods house, from whose Altar I am resolved not to depart; take heed God punish thee not as he did _Jeroboam_ for stretching forth his hand at the Altar against the Prophet; let his withered hand remind thee of thy duty. But _Tiroll_ suffered him not to squander away the time and ravell it out with further preaching, but called to the Altar a Preist whom he had brought for that purpose, and commanded him in the Kings name to take the Sacrament out of the Arch-bishops hand; which the Preist doing, the Arch-bishop unvested himselfe of his Pontificals, and (though with many repetitions of the Churches immunity) yeelded himselfe unto _Tiroll_, and taking his leave of all his Prebends, requiring them to bee witnesses of what had been done, he went Prisoner to _St.
John de Ulhua_, where he was delivered to the custody of the Governour of the Castle, and not many daies after was sent in a ship prepared for that purpose to _Spaine_ to the King and Councell, with a full charge of all his carriages and misdemeanours. Some of the City of _Mexico_ in private began to talke strangely against the Viceroy, and to stomacke the banishment of their Arch-bishop, because he had stood out against so high a power in defence of the poore and oppressed, and these their private grudges they soone vented in publike with bold and arrogant speeches against _Don Pedro Mexia_, and the Viceroy, being set on and incouraged by the Preists and Prebends, who it seems had sworne blind obedience to their Arch-Prelate, and therewith thought they could dispence with their consciences in their obedience and duty to their Magistrate. Thus did those Incendiaries for a fortnight together blow the fire of sedition and rebellion, especially amongst the inferiour sort of people and the Criolians or native _Spaniards_, and the _Indians_ and Mulatto's, whom they knew brooked not the severe and rigorous justice and judgement of the Viceroy, no nor any Government that was appointed over them from _Spaine_; untill at the fortnights end, _Tiroll_ returned from _St.
John de Ulhua_, and then began the spite and malice of all the malecontents to breake out, then began a fire of mutiny to be kindled, which was thought would have consumed and buried in ashes that great and famous City. _Tiroll_ was not a little jealous of what mischiefe the common rabble intended against him, and so kept close, not daring to walke the streets; yet his occasions inviting him to the Viceroy his palace, ventured himselfe in a Coach with drawne curtaines, which yet could not blind the eyes of the spightfull and malicious male-contents, who had notice that he was in the Coach, and before he could get to the market place, three or four boyes began to cry out, _Judas, Judas, alla va Judas_, there goeth _Judas_ that laid his hands upon Christs Vicar; others joyned with them saying, _aborquemos a este Judas_, let us hang up this _Judas_; the number of boyes yet increased, crying aloud and boldly after the Coach, _Muera el Vellaco descomulgado la muerte de Judas, muera el picaro, muera el perro_, let this excommunicated rogue and dog die the death of _Judas_; the Coach-man lashed the mules, the Coach posted, the boyes hasted after with stones and dirt, the number increased so that before _Tiroll_ could get through two streets only, there were risen above two hundred boyes, of _Spaniards, Indians, Black-mores_, and Mulatto's.
With much adoe _Tiroll_ got to the Viceroy his Palace, posting for his life, and his first care was to wish the Porters to shut all the Palace gates: for he was fearfull of what presently happened, of a more generall insurrection and uproar. For no sooner was hee got into the Viceroy his house, and the gates shut up, but there were gathered to the Market place (as I was credibly informed by those that saw and observed diligently that daies trouble) above two thousand people, all of inferiour rank and quality; and yet the number still increased till they were judged to bee about six or seven thousand. They all cried out for _Tiroll_ the _Judas_, sparing neither stones nor dirt which they did fling at the Palace windowes.
The Viceroy sent a message to them desiring them to be quiet, and to betake themselves to their houses, certifying them that _Tiroll_ was not in his Palace, but escaped out of a back doore. The rude multitude would not bee satisfied with this, being now set on by two or three Priests who were joyned with them, and so they began more violently to batter the Palace gates and walls, having brought pikes, and holbards, and long poles; others had got a few Pistols, and birding Peeces, wherewith they shot, not caring whom they killed or wounded in the Palace. It was wonderfull to see that none of the better sort, none of the Judges, no high Justice, no inferiour Officers durst or would come out to suppresse the multitude, or to assist the Viceroy being in so great danger; nay I was told by some shopkeepers who lived in the Market place, that they made a laughing businesse of it, and the people that passed by went smiling and saying, Let the boyes and youngsters alone, they will wright our wrongs, they will find out before they have done, both _Tiroll_ and _Mexia_ and him that protects them, meaning the Viceroy; but amongst them was much noted one Priest, named _Salazar_, who spent much shot and bullets, and more his spirits in running about to spie some place of advantage, which hee might soonest batter downe.
They found it seemes the prison doores easier to open, or else with helpe within they opened them, and let out all the malefactors, who joyned with them to assault the Palace. The Viceroy seeing no helpe came to him from the City, from his friends, from the Judges of the Chancery, from the Kings high Justices, nor other Officers for the peace, went up to the _Zoties_ of his Palace with his Guard and Servants that attended on him, and set up the Royall Standard, and caused a Trumpet to bee sounded to call the City to ayde and assist their King. But this prevailed not, none stirred, all the chief of the City kept within doores. And when the multitude saw the Royall Standard out, and heard the Kings name from the _Zoties_, they cryed out, and often repeated it, _Viva el Rey, muera el mal govierno, mueran los des comulgados_, that is to say, Our King live long, but let the evill government die, and perish, and let them die that are excommunicated. These words saved many of them from hanging afterwards, when the businesse was tried and searched into by _Don Martin de Carrillo_.
And with these words in their mouths, they skirmished with them of the _Zoties_ at least three houres, they above hurling downe stones, and they beneath hurling up to them and some shooting with a few Pistols and birding peeces at one another: and marke that in all this bitter skirmish there was not a peece of Ordnance shot, for the Viceroy had none for the defence of his Palace or person, neither had or hath that great City any for its strength and security, the _Spaniards_ living fearelesse of the _Indians_, and (as they thinke) secure from being annoyed by any forraine Nation. There were slain in about six houres in all that this tumult lasted, seven or eight beneath in the Market place, and one of the Viceroy his Guard and a page in the _Zoties_ above. The day drawing to an end, the multitude brought pitch and fire, and first fired the prison, then they set on fire part of the Palace, and burnt downe the chief gate. This made some of the City, of the Gentry, and of the Judges to come out, lest the fire should prevaile farre upon the City, and to perswade the people to desist, and to quench the fire.
Whilest the fire was quenching, many got into the Palace, some fell upon the Viceroyes stables, and there got part of his mules and horses rich furnitures, others began to fall upon some chests, others to teare down the hangings, but they were soone perswaded by the better sort of the City, to desist from spoile or robbery, lest by that they should bee discovered; other searched about for _Don Pedro Mexia_, for _Tiroll_ and the Viceroy. None of them could bee found, having disguised themselves and so escaped. Whither _Don Pedro Mexia_ and _Tiroll_ went, it could not bee knowen in many dayes; but certaine it was that the Viceroy disguised himselfe in a Franciscan habit, and so in company of a Fryer went through the multitude to the Cloister of the Franciscans, where hee abode all that yeer, (and there I saw him the yeere after) not daring to come out, untill hee had informed the King and Counsell of _Spain_, with what hath happened, and of the danger himselfe and the City was in, if not timely prevented.
The King and Counsell of _Spain_ took the businesse to consideration, and looked upon it as a warning peece, to a further mutiny and rebellion, and an example to other parts of _America_ to follow upon any such like occasion, if some punishment were not inflicted upon the chief offendors. Wherefore the yeere following 1625. which was when I went to those parts, the King sent a new Viceroy the Marques of _Serralvo_ to govern in the place of the Count of _Gelves_, and especially to aid and assist _Don Martin de Carrillo_ a Priest, and Inquisitor of the Inquisition of _Valladolid_, who was sent with large Commission and authority to examine the foresaid tumult and mutiny, and to judge all offenders that should be found in it, yea and to hang up such as should deserve death. I was in _Mexico_ in the best time of the tryall, and had intelligence from _Don Martin de Carrillo_ his owne Ghostly father a Dominican Fryer of the chief passages in the examination of the businesse; and the result was, that if Justice should have beene executed rightly, most of the prime of _Mexico_ would have suffered, for not comming in to the Royall Standard, when called by the sound of the Trumpet; the Judges some were put out of their places, though they answered that they durst not stirre out, for that they were informed that all the City would have risen against them if they had appeared in publick.
The chief actors were found to bee the Criolians or Natives of the Countrey, who doe hate the _Spanish_ Government, and all such as come from _Spain_; and reason they have for it, for by them they are much oppressed, as I have before observed, and are and will bee alwayes watching any opportunity to free themselves from the _Spanish_ yoke. But the chief fomenters of the mutiny were found to bee the Bishops party the Preists; and so had not _Salazar_ and three more of them fled, they had certainly been sent to the Gallies of _Spain_ for Galley slaves; this judgment was published against them. There were not above three or foure hanged of so many thousands, and their condemnation was for things which they had stollen out of the Viceroys Palace. And because further inquiry into the rebellion would have brought in at least half the City either for actors, or counsellors, or fomentors, the King was well advised to grant a generall pardon. The Archbishops proceedings were more disliked in the Court of _Spain_, then the Viceroyes, and was long without any preferment; though, at last that there might be no exceptions taken by his party, nor cause given for a further stirring the embers to a greater combustion, the Councel thought fit to honor him in those parts where hee was born; and to make him Bishop of _Zamora_ a small Bishoprick in _Castile_; so that his wings were clipt, and from Archbishop hee came to bee but Bishop, and from threescore thousand Crownes yeerely rent he fell to foure or five thousand onely a yeere. The count of _Gelves_ was also sent to _Spain_, and well entertained in the Court, and therein made Master of the Kings horse, which in _Spain_ is a Noblemans preferment.
And this History shewing the state and condition of _Mexico_, when I travelled to those parts I have willingly set down, that the Reader may by it bee furnished with better observations then my self (who am but a Neophyte) am able to deduct. Somewhat might bee observed from the Viceroyes covetousnesse; which doubtlesse in all is a great sinne, for as _Paul_ well adviseth, I _Tim._ 6. 10. _The love of mony is the root of all evill_; but much more to bee condemned in a Prince or Governour; whom it may blind in the exercise of Justice and Judgment, and harden those tender bowels (which ought to bee in him) of a father and shepheard to his flock and children. Wee may yet from this Viceroyes practice and example against a chiefe head of the _Romish_ Church, discover that errour of the Preists and Jesuites of _England_, who perswade the people here that no temporall Magistrate hath power over them, and that to lay hands on them in wrath and anger (being as they say Consecrated to God and his Altar) is _ipso facto_ a deep excommunication; whereas wee see the contrary in this Viceroy a member of the Church of _Rome_, and yet exercising his temporall power against an Arch-Bishop, and by _Tiroll_ taking him from the Church, and as his prisoner sending him with just wrath and anger to a forraine and remote place of banishment.
But lastly it is my desire that the High and Honorable Court of Parliament which now is sitting for the good of this Kingdome, and for the good of it hath already pulled downe the Hierarchy of such Prelates and Archprelates, would looke upon the trouble and uproare which the keys of the Church in the hand of an undiscreet Preist brought upon that City of _Mexico_. Certainly as the strength of the Church well setled, and governed with subordination to the Magistrate, is likewise the strength of the Common-wealth; so on the other side the power of the Keyes in the Clergies hand to cast out what incestuous _Corinthian_ they please, without the rest of the _Corinthians_ consent, I _Cor._ 5. 4, 5. may prove dangerous and troublesome to the Common-weale and good. For if the Clergy may use by itselfe, without the overseeing eye of the Magistrates Commissioners, the power of the keyes; who shall bee free from their censures, that any way will oppose them? The poor and ignorant will not onely bee the object of their censures, but the rich and wise and noble.
Ruler and Magistrate will also come under their censures; wherein I finde a Minister may then as a Pope encroach upon the highest Crowne of an Emperour. Nay certainly in _England_ the thoughts of some such aspiring Ministers have been higher then the thoughts of this Arch-Bishop of _Mexico_ over a Viceroy, the conceipt of their power with the Keyes have hoised them above their Prince, for I have heard one of them say, he knew not but that by the power of the keyes hee might as well excommunicate the King as any other private person. This conceit hath made the Pope of _Rome_ feare no earthly Prince, Emperour, Ruler or Magistrate; nay this hath made him to bee feared and respected and honoured by Kings and Princes; And why may not the same power in the hands of a Protestant Clergy, make the meanest and the highest to feare and dread them? But some will say, the Word of God being the Touchstone wherewith they are to try what points may be the subjects of their censures, by such a light and guidance they are not like to erre.
But they then being themselves the Judges of the sense and meaning of the Word, who shall oppose their judgment, and their ensuing censures? What if to their triall and judgment they shall bring any Law enacted by a High Court of Parliament, and shall judge it not according to the Word of God, and so presse it to the peoples consciences; threatning with their censures such as shall obey it? in such a case how may the power of the keyes unlock and open a doore to the people of rebellion against their lawfull Magistrates? Oh what dangers may befall a Common-wealth, when thus the Clergy shall stand over poor and rich, Subject and Magistrate, as _Peters_ statue at _Rome_, with Crosse-keyes in his hand? What a rebellion did the Archbishop of _Mexico_ cause by excommunicating _Don Pedro Mexia_ first, and then the Viceroy? and how did the people fear his keyes more then their Viceroys temporall power and authority, siding with him against such as hee had excommunicated? What troubles did that Doctor _Smith_ Bishop of _Chalcedon_ bring among the Papists, small and great ones, not long agoe here in _England_, laying upon them by the power of the Keyes a censure of Excommunication, if they confessed to, or did entertaine and heare the Masse of any, that had not derived their authority from him?
Then were they in open rebellion one against another; the Secular Preists against the Monkes, Fryers, and Jesuites, and the Laity all troubled, some siding with one, and some with another, untill Doctor _Smith_ having thus kindled the fire, was faine to leave it burning, and to betake himself to _Paris_, and from thence to foment the dissention which with power of the Keyes hee had caused here.
Oh surely the Church so far is a good Mother, as it allowes a Magistrate to be a Father. And great comfort have those that live within the pale of the Church, to know that they have the Magistrate a Father to flye unto in their pressures and discomforts.
I must ingenuously confesse that one maine point that brought me from the Church of _Rome_, was the too too great power of the Keyes in the Popes, Bishops, and Preists hands, who studying more selfe Policy, then common Policy, looke upon the people, and with their power deale with them more as their subjects, then as politicall Members in a Common-wealth, rending and tearing them daily by their censures from that common and Politicall body to which they belong, without any hopes of care to bee had of them by their Magistrate and Politicall head and Governour. And I hope I shall not have fled from Antichrist who exalteth himself as head of the Church, and from that power hath his influence over all State and Politicall Heads and Rulers; to find in a Protestant Church any of his spirit, making a distinction of a spirituall and temporall head, forgetting the onely head Christ Jesus; which were it once granted, as the spirit is more noble then the body, so would the inference soon bee made, that they that are over the spirit, are higher in power then they that are over the body; which conclusion would soon bring _Mexicoes_ troubles among Protestants.
Experience in all my travails by sea and land, in most parts of _Europe_ and of _America_, hath ever taught mee, that where the Clergy hath been too much exalted and enjoyed power over the people, there the Common-wealth hath soon fallen into heavy pressures and troubles. And let not this my observation seem strange as coming from a Minister, for I have learned from Christ, _Matth._ 20. 25, 26, 27. _That the Princes of the Gentiles exercise Dominion, and they that are great exercise authority. But it shall not bee so among you, but whosoever will bee great among you, let him bee your Minister; and whosoever will bee chiefe among you, let him be your Servant._
I hope the High Court of Parliament will so settle the Church and State here that this shall not feare any further troubles from that; and that wee who have our portion from the one, may bee Ministers and Servants under the Commissioners of the other. And thus largely I have described the State and condition of _Mexico_ in the time of _Montezuma_, and since his death the manner and proportion of it, with the troubled condition I found it in when I went thither, by reason of a mutiny and rebellion caused by an Arch-Bishop the yeer before. I shall now come out of _Mexico_, and present unto you the places most remarkable about it; and from thence the severall parts and Countries of _America_, before I betake my self to the journey which I made from _Mexico_ to _Guatemala_, lying nine hundred _English_ miles Southward, and from thence yet to _Costarica_, and _Nicoya_, being nine hundred miles further towards the South.
CHAP. XIII.
_Shewing the severall parts of this new World of_ America; _and the places of note about the famous City of_ Mexico.
Although my travailes by Sea and Land in _America_ were not above three or foure thousand miles (which is not the fift part of it, if exactly compassed) yet for the better compleating of this my worke I thought fit to inlarge my self to a full division of the many and sundry parts thereof, here first in generall; and hereafter more in particular of those parts wherein I lived twelve yeeres, and of those which I more exactly noted and observed as I travailed and passed through them. The chief division therefore of this greatest part of the World, is twofold onely, to wit, the _Mexicans_, and the _Peruan_ parts, which containe many great and sundry Provinces and Countries, some as big as our whole Kingdom of _England_. But _Mexico_ giving name to halfe _America_, is now called _Nova Hispania_, new _Spain_, from whence the Kings of _Spain_ doe stile themselves, _Hispaniarum Reges_. The _Mexican_ part containeth chiefly the Northern Tract, and comprehendeth these Provinces hitherto knowne and discovered, to wit, _Mexico, Quivira, Nicaragua, Jucatan, Florida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia, Corterialis_, and _Estotilandia_.
The compasse of this part of _America_ is thirteen thousand miles. The _Peruan_ part containeth all the Southern Tract, and is tyed to the _Mexican_ by the _Isthmus_ or strait of _Darien_, being no more then 17 or as others say, in the narrowest place but 12 miles broad from the North to the South Sea. And many have mentioned to the Councell of _Spain_, the cutting of a Navigable Channell through this small _Isthmus_, so to shorten the Voiage to _China_, and the _Moluccoes_. But the Kings of _Spain_ have not as yet attempted to doe it, some say lest in the worke hee should lose those few _Indians_ that are left (would to God it were so that they were and had been so carefull and tender of the poore _Indians_ lives, more populous would that vast and spatious Countrey bee at this day:) but others say he hath not attempted that great worke, lest the passage by the Cape _Bona Esperanza_ good hope, being left off, those Seas might become a receptacle of Pirates. However this hath not been attempted by the _Spaniards_, they give not for reason any extraordinary great charge, for that would soone bee recompensed with the speedy and easie conveying that way the Commodities from South to North Seas.
This _Peruan_ part of _America_ containeth these Countries, or Kingdomes, to wit, _Castella aurea, Guiana, Peru, Brasil, Chille_; and the compasse of it is seventeen thousand miles. I shall not speake distinctly of all these parts, which better writers, and of more knowledge have before mee discovered; and because some of them being out of the _Spaniards_ reach and dominion, from whom I have received my best intelligence, I have from them had little notice of them, nor experience, which indeed I intend to make my best guide in this my worke. Therefore to returne again to the _Mexican_ part, and the Northern Tract, I shall fall again upon the first and chiefe member of that division, which I said was _Mexico_. This aboundeth with golden sanded rivers, in which are many Crocodiles (though not so big as those of _Egypt_), which the _Indian_ people eat. It glorieth in the mountaines _Popochampeche_, and _Popocatepec_, which are of the same nature with _Ætna_ and _Vesuvius_. Nay all the way South-ward as farre as _Leon_ in _Nicaragua_, there are many of these fiery mountaines.
But _Popocatepec_ is one of the chiefe of them, which signifieth a hill of smoake, for many times it casteth out smoake and fire; it standeth eight leagues from _Chololla_; the ascending up unto it is very troublesome, and full of craggie rocks. When _Cortez_ passed that way to _Mexico_, he sent ten _Spaniards_ to view it, with many _Indians_ to carry their victuals, and to guide them in the way. They approached so nigh the top, that they heard such a terrible noyse which proceeded from thence, that they durst not goe unto it, for the ground did tremble and shake, and great quantity of ashes did much disturb their way. But yet two of them who seemed to be most hardie, and desirous to see strange things, went up to the top, because they would not return with a sleevelesse answer, and that they might not be accounted cowards, leaving their fellowes behind them, proceeded forwards, and passed through that desart of ashes, and at length came under a great smoake very thick, and standing there a while, the darknesse vanished partly away, and then appeared the Vulcan and concavity, which is about halfe a league in compasse, out of the which the aire came rebounding with a very great noise, very shrill and whistling, so that the whole hill did tremble; it was like unto an oven where glasse is made.
The smoake and heat was so great that they could not abide it, and of force were constrained to return by the way that they had ascended. But they were not gone farre, when the Vulcan began to flash out flames of fire, ashes and embers, yea and at the last stones of burning fire, and if they had not chanced to find a rocke, under which they shadowed themselves, undoubtedly they had there been burned. It is like unto the Vulcan of _Sicilia_, it is high and round, and never wanteth snow about some part of it. Before the coming of _Cortez_ for ten yeers space it had left off expelling vapour or smoake; but in the yeer 1540. it began again to burn, and with the horrible noyse thereof, the people that dwelt four leagues from it were terrified; the ashes that proceeded then from it reached to _Tlaxcallan_, which standeth ten leagues distant from it; yea some affirme that it extended fifteen leagues distant, and burned the herbs in the gardens, the corne in the fields, and clothes that lay a drying.
And many such hils and mountaines doth this _Mexican_ part of _America_, or new _Spaine_ abound with. The limits of it are on the East, _Jucatan_, and the gulfe of _Mexico_, on the West _Californio_, on the South the _Peruan_ part. The Northern bounds are unknowne, so that we cannot certainly avow this _America_ to be continent, nor certainly affirme it to be an Island, distinguished from the old world. It was very populous before the arrivall of the _Spaniards_, who in seventeen yeers slew six millions of them, roasting some, plucking out the eyes, cutting off the arms of others, and casting them living to be devoured of wilde beasts. This chiefe Province of _America_ named _Mexico_, is further subdivided into four parts, that is to say, _Themistitan, Nova Galicia, Mechoacan_, and _Guastachan. Themistitan_ is the greatest and noblest of these foure; for that it containeth six Cities, and of them one is _Mexico_, which giveth name to the halfe part of _America_, and is the seat of an Arch-bishop, and of the _Spanish_ Viceroy, whose greatnesse within I have before laid open; the second City is _La Puebla de las Angeles_, the City of Angels; the third _Villaruca_, the fourth _Antiquera_; the fifth _Meccioca_; the sixth _Ottopan_.
But all these, excepting the two first, are but small places, named Citties formerly, for that the _Spaniards_ thought to have made them Bishops seats, which they have not been able to performe, by reason that _Mexico_ and the City of _Angels_ hath drawne to them the chiefe trading, and most of the inhabitants of the other foure. Especially the resort to _Mexico_ is so great, that all the Townes about (which formerly were of _Indians_) are now inhabited by _Spaniards_ and _Mestizoes_. I may not omit about _Mexico_ that famous place of _Chapultepec_, which in the Heathens times was the burying place of the Emperours; and now by the _Spaniards_ is the Escuriall of _America_, where the Viceroyes that die are also interred. There is a sumptuous palace built with many fair gardens, and devises of waters, and ponds of fish, whither the Viceroyes and the gentry of _Mexico_ do resort for their recreation. The riches here belonging to the Viceroyes Chappell are thought to be worth above a million of crownes.
_Tacuba_ is also a pleasant Towne full of orchards and gardens, in the very way to _Chapultepec_. South-ward is _Toluco_, rich also for trading, but above all much mentioned for the Bacon, which is the best of all those parts, and is transported far and neer. West-ward is the Towne called, _La Piedad_ at the end of a Cawsey, whither the people much resort from _Mexico_, being drawn to the superstitious worship of a picture of _Mary_, which hath been enriched by the chiefe of _Mexico_ with many thousand pounds worth of gifts of chaines, and crownes of gold.
But more Northwest-ward three leagues from _Mexico_ is the pleasantest place of all that are about _Mexico_, called _La Soledad_, and by others _el desierto_, the solitary or desert place and wildernesse. Were all wildernesses like it, to live in a wildernesse would be better then to live in a City. This hath been a device of poor Fryers named discalced, or barefooted Carmelites, who to make shew of their hypocriticall and apparent godlinesse, and that whilst they would be thought to live like Eremites, retired from the world, they may draw the world unto them; they have built there a stately Cloister, which being upon a hill and among rocks makes it to be more admired. About the Cloister they have fashioned out many holes and Caves in, under, and among the rocks, like Eremites lodgings, with a room to lie in, and an Oratory to pray in, with pictures, and Images, and rare devices for mortification, as disciplines of wyar, rods of iron, haire-cloths, girdles with sharp wyar pointes to girdle about their bare flesh, and many such like toyes which hang about their Oratories, to make people admire their mortified and holy lives.
All these Eremeticall holes and caves (which are some ten in all) are within the bounds and compasse of the Cloister, and among orchards and gardens full of fruits and flowers, which may take up two miles compasse; and here among the rockes are many springs of water, which with the shade of the plantins and other trees, are most coole and pleasant to the Eremites; they have also the sweet smell of the rose and jazmin, which is a little flower, but the sweetest of all others; there is not any other flower to be found that is rare and exquisite in that countrey, which is not in that wildernesse to delight the senses of those mortified Eremites. They are weekly changed from the Cloister, and when their weeke is ended, others are sent, and they return unto their Cloister; they carry with them their bottles of wine, sweet-meats, and other provision; as for fruits the trees about do drop them into their mouthes. It is wonderfull to see the strange devises of fountains of water which are about the gardens; but much more strange and wonderfull to see the resort of Coaches, and gallants, and Ladies, and Citizens from _Mexico_ thither, to walke and make merry in those desart pleasures, and to see those hypocrites, whom they looke upon as living Saints, and so think nothing too good for them, to cherish them in their desart conflicts with Satan.
None goes to them but carries some sweet-meats, or some other dainty dish to nourish and feed them withall; whose prayers they likewise earnestly solicite, leaving them great almes of mony for their masses; and above all, offering to a picture in their Church, called our Lady of _Carmel_, treasures of diamonds, pearles, golden chaines and crownes, and gownes of cloth of gold and silver. Before this picture did hang in my time twenty lampes of silver; the worst of them being worth a hundred pound; truely Satan hath given unto them what he offered Christ in the desart, All these things wil I give thee if thou wilt fall down and worship me; all the dainties and of all the riches of _America_ hath he given unto them in that their desart, for that they daily fall downe and worship him. In the way to this place there is another Towne yet called _Tacubaya_, where is a rich Cloister of Franciscans, and also many gardens and orchards, but above all much resorted to for the musicke in that Church, wherein the Friers have made the _Indians_ so dexterous and skilfull, that they dare compare with the Cathedrall Church of _Mexico_. These were the chiefe places of mine and my friends resort, whilst I abode about _Mexico_, which I found to be most worth a History, and so thought fit here to insert them, and so passe on to the other parts or Provinces of _Mexico_.
Next to this is the Province of _Guastachan_, which lieth in the rode from _St. John de Ulhua_ to _Mexico_, which is not so poore as _Heylin_ maketh it, for that now it doth abound with many rich farmes of Sugar, and of Cochinil, and reacheth as farre as the Valley of _Guaxaca_ which is a most rich place. The chiefe City of this Province was wont to be _Tlaxcallan_, whereof I have formerly spoken; but now the City of _Guaxaca_ which is a Bishops seat, and _Xalappa_ which is also of late made a Bishops seat, makes it more famous. It glorieth also in _Villa Rica_ a Port Towne very wealthy, because all the traffique betwixt the Old and New _Spains_ do passe through it. The _Spaniards_ have in it two rich Colonies, called _Pamico_, and _St. James_ in the valleys. The third Province of _Mexico_ is called _Mechoacan_, which containeth in circuit fourscore leagues. It is also an exceeding rich countrey, abounding in Mulberry trees, silk, hony, wax, black-amber, works of divers coloured feathers, most rich, rare, and exquisite, and such store of fish, that from thence it tooke its name, _Mechuoucan_, which signifieth a place of fishing.
The language of the _Indians_ is most elegant and copious, and they tall, strong, active, and of very good wits, as may be seen in all their workes, but especially in those of feathers, which are so curious, that they are presented for rich presents to the King and Nobles of _Spaine_. The chiefe City of this Province is _Valladolid_ a Bishops-seat; and the best Townes are _Sinfonte_, which was the residence of the Kings of this countrey. There is also _Pascuar_ and _Colima_ very great Townes inhabited by _Indians_ and _Spaniards_. There are also two good havens, called _St. Anthony_, and _St. James_, or _Santiago_. This country of _Mechoacan_ was almost as great as the Empire of _Mexico_, when _Cortez_ conquered those parts. The King that was then of _Mechoacan_ was called _Caconzin_, who was a great friend unto _Cortez_, and a servitor to the _Spaniards_, and willingly yeelded himselfe as vassall to the King of _Spaine_; yet such was the cruelty of _Don Nunio de Guzman_, the first Ruler and President of the Chancery of _Mexico_ after the conquest, that understanding he was put out of his office, he tooke his journey against the _Teuchichimecas_, and carried in his company five hundred _Spaniards_, with whom and six thousand _Indians_ which by force he tooke out of _Mechoacan_, he conquered _Xalixco_ which is now called the new _Galicia_.
And as for this purpose hee passed through _Mechoacan_, he tooke Prisoner the King _Caconzin_, (who was quiet and peaceable and stirred not against him) and tooke from him ten thousand markes of plate, and much gold and other treasure, and afterwards burned him, and many other _Indian_ Gentlemen and principall persons of that Kingdome, because they should not complaine, saying that a dead dog biteth not. They were in this Kingdome as superstitious and idolatrous as in the rest of _America_. No divorcement was permitted amongst them, except the party made a solemn oath, that they looked not the one on the other stedfastly and directly at the time of their marriage. In the burying likewise of their Kings they were superstitious, cruell, and Idolatrous. When any King of _Mechoacan_ happened to be brought to such extremity of sicknesse that hope of life was past; then did he name and appoint which of his sons should inherit the state and Crown, and being known the new King or heir presently sent for all the Governours, Captains, and valiant souldiers, who had any office or charge, to come unto the buriall of his father, and he that came not, from thenceforth was held for a Traitour, and so punished.
When the death of the old King was certaine, then came all degrees of estates, and did bring their presents to the new King for the approbation of his Kingdome: But if the King were not throughly dead, but at the point of death, then the gates were shut in, and none permitted to enter; and if he were throughly dead, then began a generall cry and mourning, and they were permitted to come where their dead King lay, and to touch him with their hands. This being done the carkasse was washed with sweet waters, and then a fine shirt put upon him, and a payre of shooes made of Dear skinne put on his feet, and about his ankles were tied bells of gold, about the wrists of his hands were put bracelets of Turkises and of gold likewise; about his neck they did hang collars of pretious stones and also of gold, and rings in his eares, with a great Turkise in his neither lip. Then his body was laid upon a large Beere whereon was placed a good bed under him; on his one side lay a bow with a quiver of arrowes, and on his other side lay an Image made of fine mantles of his own stature or bignesse, with a great tuffe of fine feathers, shooes upon his feet, with bracelets and a collar of gold.
While this was a doing, others were busied in washing the men and women, which should be slain for to accompany him into hell. These wretches that were to be slain, were first banqueted and filled with drinke, because they should receive their death with lesse paine. The new King did appoint those who should die for to serve the King his father; and many of those simple soules esteemed that death so odious for a thing of immortall glorious. First six Gentlewomen of noble birth were appointed to die; the one to have the office of keeper of his jewels, which he was wont to weare; another for the office of cup-bearer; another to give him water with a bason and Ewer; another to give him alwaies the Urinall; another to be his Cooke; and another to serve for Landress. They slew also many women, slaves, and free-maidens for to attend upon the Gentlewomen, and moreover one of every occupation within the City. When all these that were appointed to die were washed, and their bellies full with meat and drinke, then they painted their faces yellow, and put garlands of sweet flowers upon each of their heads.
Then they went in order of procession before the Beere, whereon the dead King was carried; some went playing on instruments made of Snail shells, and others played upon bones and shells of Sea Tortois, others went whistling, and the most part weeping. The sons of the dead King and other Noble men carried upon their shoulders the Beere where the Corps lay, and proceeded with an easie pace towards the Temple of the God called _Curicaveri_; his kinsmen went round about the Beer singing a sorrowfull song. The officers and houshold-servants of the Court, with other Magistrates and Rulers of justice bare the Standards and divers other Arms. And about midnight they departed in the order aforesaid out of the Kings Palace with great light of fire-brands, and with a heavy noyse of their trumpets and drummes. The Citizens which dwelt where the Corse passed, attended to make clean the street. And when they were come to the Temple, they went four times round about a great fire which was prepared of Pine tree to burn the dead body.
Then the Beer was laid upon the fire, and in the meane while that the body was burning, they mawled with a club those which had the garlands, and afterward buried them four and four as they were apparelled behind the Temple. The next day in the morning the ashes, bones and jewels were gathered and laid upon a rich mantle, the which was carried to the Temple gate, where the Preists attended to blesse those divellish reliques, whereof they made a dow or paste, and thereof an Image, which was apparelled like a man, with a visor on his face, and all other sorts of jewels that the dead King was wont to weare, so that it seemed a gallant Idoll. At the foot of the Temple staires they opened a grave ready made, which was square, large, two fadome deepe, it was also hanged with new mats roundabout, and a faire bed therein, in the which one of the Preists placed the Idoll made of ashes with his eyes towards the East part, and did hang round about the walls Targets of gold and silver, with bowes and arrows, and many gallant tuffes of feathers with earthen vessels, as pots, dishes, and platters, so that the grave was filled up with houshold-stuffe, chests covered with leather, apparel, Jewels, meate drinke and armour.
This done, the grave was shut up and made sure with beames, boardes, and floored with earth on the top. All those Gentlemen who had served or touched any thing in the buriall, washed themselves and went to dinner in the Court or yard of the Kings house without any table, and having dined they wiped their hands upon certain lockes of Cotton-wooll, hanging downe their heads, and not speaking any word, except it were to aske for drinke. This ceremonie endured five daies, and in all that time no fire was permitted to be kindled in the City, except in the Kings house and Temples, nor yet any corne was ground, or market kept, nor any durst goe out of their houses, shewing all the sorrow that might be possible for the death of their King. And this was the superstitious manner of burying the Kings of _Mechoacan_. This people did punish adultery most rigorously; for to commit it was death as well for the man as the woman. But if the adulterer were a Gentleman, his head was decked with feathers, and after that he was hanged, and his body burned; and for this offence was no pardon, either for man or woman. But for avoiding of adultery they did permit other common women, but no publike and ordinary stewes. Now the _Indians_ of _Mechoacan_ are greatly taken with the popish devices, and are strong in that religion, as any part of _America_.
The fourth and last Province of the Countrey or Empire of _Mexico_, is called _Galicia nova_, and is watered with two very great rivers, the one named _Piastle_, and the other _San Sebastian_. This Province glorieth in many great Townes of _Indians_; but especially in six, inhabited both by _Indians_ and _Spaniards_; the first and chiefest is _Xalisco_, taken by _Nunio de Guzman_ 1530. when he fled from _Mexico_ in a rage, and tooke prisoner and burned the King of _Mechoacan_. The second is _Guadalaiara_. The third _Coanum_. The fourth _Compostella_. The fifth, _St. Espirit_. The sixth, _Capola_, which now is called _Nova Mexico_, new _Mexico_. And here it is that the _Spaniards_ are daily warring against the _Indians_ which live Northward, and are not as yet reduced nor brought under the _Spanish_ yoake and government. They are valiant _Indians_, and hold the _Spaniards_ hard to it; and have great advantage against them in the rocks and mountaines, where they abide and cut off many _Spaniards_. Their chief weapons are but bowes and arrowes, and yet with them from the thick Woods, hils and rockes they annoy and offend the _Spaniards_ exceedingly.
I have heard some _Spaniards_ say that they flie and climbe up the rocks like Goates; and when they draw nigh unto them, then they cry out with a hideous noise shooting their arrowes at them, and in an instant are departed and fled unto another rock. The reason why the _Spaniards_ are so earnest to pursue and conquer these _Indians_, more then many others of _America_, which as yet are not brought in subjection to the _Spaniards_, is for the many Mines of silver and treasure of gold which they know to bee there. They have got already sure possession of part of those riches in the Mines, called St. _Lewis Sacatecas_, from whence they send all the silver that is coyned in the Mint houses of _Mexico_ and the City of _Angels_, and every yeere besides to _Spain_ in silver wedges at least six Millions. But the further the _Spaniards_ goe to the North, still more riches they discover; and faine would they subdue all those Northern parts (as I have heard them say) lest our _English_ from _Virginia_, and their other plantations, get in before them.
I have heard them wonder that our _English_ enter no further into the maine land; surely say they, either they feare the _Indians_, or else with a little paultry Tobacco they have as much as will maintaine them in lazinesse. Certainly they intend to conquer through those heathenish _Indians_, untill by land they come to _Florida_ and _Virginia_, (for so they boast) if they bee not met with by some of our Northern Nations of _Europe_, who may better keep them off then those poor _Indians_, and may doe God greater and better service with those rich Mines, then the _Spaniards_ hitherto have done.
Thus having spoken somewhat of the foure Provinces of _Mexico_, which was the first member of the division _Mexican_ and _Peruan_; Now I shall briefly say somewhat further of three more Countries belonging to the _Mexican_ or Northern Tract as opposite to the _Peruan_, omiting _Florida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia Corterialis_, and _Estotilandia_, because I will not write as many doe by relation and hearsay, but by more sure intelligence, insight and experience. In my first division next to _Mexico_, I placed _Quivira, Jucatan_, and _Nicaragua_; of these three therefore I shall say a little, and then some what of the _Peruan_ part. _Quivira_ is seated on the most Western part of _America_, just over against _Tartary_, from whence being not much distant some suppose that the Inhabitants first came into this new World. And indeed the _Indians_ of _America_ in many things seeme to bee of the race and progenie of the _Tartars_, in that _Quivira_ and all the West side of the Country towards _Asia_ is farre more populous then the East towards _Europe_, which sheweth these parts to have been first inhabited.
Secondly, their uncivility, and barbarous properties tell us that they are most like the _Tartars_ of any. Thirdly, the West side of _America_ if it bee not continent with _Tartary_, is yet disjoyned by a small straight. Fourthly, the people of _Quivira_ neerest to _Tartary_, are said to follow the seasons and pasturing of their cattell like the _Tartarians_. All this side of _America_ is full of herbage, and injoyeth a temperate aire. The people are desirous of glasse more then of gold; and in some places to this day are Cannibals. The chief riches of this Country are their Kine, which are to them as we say of our Ale to drunkards, meat, drink and cloth, and more too. For the Hides yeeld them houses, or at least the coverings of them; their bones bodkins, their hair thred, their sinews ropes; their horns, mawes and bladders, vessels; their dung, fire; their Calve skinnes, budgets to draw and keepe water; their blood, drink; their flesh, meat.
There is thought to bee some traffique from _China_, or _Cathaya_, hither to those parts, where as yet the _Spaniards_ have not entred. For when _Vazquez de Coronado_ conquered some part of it, hee saw in the further Sea certaine ships, not of common making; which seemed to bee well laden, and bare in their prowes, Pelicans, which could not bee conjectured to come from any Country, but one of these two. In _Quivira_ there are but two Provinces knowne unto us, which are _Cibola_, and _Nova Albion. Cibola_ lyeth on the Eastside, whose chief City is of the same name, and denominates the whole Province. The chief Town next to _Cibola_ is called _Totontaa_, which is temperate and pleasant, being situated upon a River so called. The third Town worth mentioning is called _Tinguez_, which was burnt by the _Spaniards_; who under the conduct of _Francisco Vasquez de Coronado_ made this Province subject to the King of _Spain, Anno Dom._ 1540. And since this Town of _Tinguez_ hath been rebuilt and inhabited by the _Spaniards_; There is a goodly Colledge of Jesuites, who only preach to the _Indians_ of that country. _Nova Albion_ lyeth on the West side towards _Tartary_, and is very little inhabited by the _Spaniards_, who have found no wealth or riches there. Our ever Renowned and Noble Captain Sir _Francis Drake_ discovered it, entred upon it, and hee named it _Nova Albion_, because the King that then was, did willingly submit himself unto our Queen _Elizabeth_.
The Country abounds with fruits pleasing both the eye and the Palate. The people are given to hospitality, but withall to witchcraft and adoration of devils. The bounds between this _Quivira_ and _Mexico_ Empire is _Mar Virmiglio_, or _Californio_. The third Kingdome belonging to the _Mexican_ part and Northern Tract is _Jucatan_; which was first discovered by _Francisco Hernandez de Cordova_, in the year 1517. It is called _Jucatan_, not as some have conceited from _Joctan_ the son of Heber, who they thinke came out of the East, where the Scripture placeth him, _Gen._ 12. 23. to inhabite here, but from _Jucatan_ which in the _Indian_ tongue, signifieth, what say you? for when the _Spaniards_ at their first arriving in that Country did aske of the _Indians_ the name of the place, the Savages not understanding what they meaned, replyed unto them _Jucatan_, which is, what say you? whereupon the _Spaniards_ named it, and ever since have called it _Jucatan_. The whole Country is at least 900 miles in circuit, and is a _Peninsula_. It is situated over against the Isle of _Cuba_; and is divided into three parts, first _Jucatan_ it selfe, whose Cities of greatest worth, are _Campeche, Valladolid, Merida, Simaricas_, and one which for his greatnesse and beauty, they call _Caire_.
This Country among the _Spaniards_ is held to bee poor; the chief Commodities in it are hony, wax, Hides, and some Sugar, but no Indigo, Cochinil, nor Mines of silver; There are yet some drugs much esteemed of by the Apothecaries, _Cana fistula, Zarzaparilla_ especially; and great store of _Indian Maiz_. There is also abundance of good Wood and Timber fit for shipping, whereof the _Spaniards_ doe make very strong ships, which they use in their voiages to _Spain_ and back again. In the yeer 1632. the _Indians_ of this Country in many places of it were like to rebell against their _Spanish_ Governour, who vexed them sorely, making them bring in to him their Fowles and Turkies (whereof there is also great abundance) and their hony and wax, (wherein hee traded) at the rate and price which hee pleased to set them for his better advantage; which was such a disadvantage to them, that to enrich him they impoverished themselves; and so resolved to betake themselves to the Woods and Mountaines; where in a rebellious way they continued some Months, untill the Franciscan Fryers, who have there great power over them, reduced them back, and the Governour (lest hee should quite lose that Country by a further rebellion) granted to them not onely a generall pardon in the Kings name, but for the future promised to use them more mildly and gently.
The second part of it is called _Guatemala_, (wherein I lived for the space of almost twelve yeers) whose Inhabitants have lost formerly halfe a million of their kinsmen and friends by the unmercifull dealing of the _Spaniards_; and yet for all the losse of so many thousands, there is no part of _America_ more flourishing then this with great and populous _Indians_ Townes. They may thank the Fryers who defend them daily against the _Spaniards_ cruelty, and this yet for their owne ends; for while the _Indians_ flourish and increase, the Fryers purses flourish also and are filled. This Country is very fresh and plentifull. The chief Cities are _Guatemala, Cassuca_, and _Chiapa_; whereof I shall speak more largely hereafter. The third part of _Jucatan_ is _Acasamil_, which is an Island over against _Guatemala_ which is now commonly called by the _Spaniards Sta Cruz_, whose chief Towne is _Sta. Cruz_.
The fourth and last Country of the division of the _Mexican_ part and Northern Tract of _America_ (which is under the _Spanish_ Government, and my best knowledge and experience) is _Nicaragua_, which standeth South East from _Mexico_, and above foure hundred and fifty leagues from it. Yet it agreeth somewhat with _Mexico_ in nature both of soile and Inhabitants. The people are of good stature, and of colour indifferent white. They had, before they received Christianity, a setled and politick forme of Government; Onely, as _Solon_ appointed no Law for a mans killing of his father, so had this people none for the murtherer of a King, both of them conceiting, that men were not so unnaturall, as to commit such crimes. A theef they judged not to death, but adjudged him to be slave to that man whom hee had robbed; till by his service hee had made satisfaction: a course truely more mercifull and not lesse just, then the losse of life.
This Countrey is so pleasing to the eye, and abounding in all things necessary, that the _Spaniards_ call it _Mahomets_ Paradise. Among other flourishing trees, here groweth one of that nature, that a man cannot touch any of its branches, but it withereth presently. It is as plentifull of Parrets, as our Countrey of _England_ is of Crowes; Turkies, Fowles, Quailes and Rabbets are ordinary meat there. There are many populous _Indian_ Townes (though not so many as about _Guatemala_) in this Countrey; and especially two Cities of _Spaniards_, the one _Leon_, a Bishops Seat, and the other _Granada_, which standeth upon a Lake of fresh water, which hath above three hundred miles in compasse, and having no intercourse with the Ocean, doth yet continually ebbe and flow. But of this Countrey, and of this City especially I shall say somewhat more, when I come to speake of my travailing through it.
Thus I have briefly touched upon the _Mexican_ part, and so much of the Northern Tract as is under the King of _Spain_ his Dominion, leaving more particulars, untill I come to shew the order of my being in and journeying through some of these Countries. I will now likewise give you a glimpse of the Southern Tract, and _Peruan_ part of _America_. Which containeth chiefly five great Countries or Kingdomes, some in whole, and others in part, subject to the Crown of _Spain_ and _Portugal_, which are, first _Castella aurea_; secondly, _Gujana_; thirdly, _Peru_; fourthly, _Brasile_; fifthly, _Chille_. But I will not fill my History with what others have written of the foure last named Countries, wherein I was not much; but what I could learne of _Peru_, I will briefly speak, and so come to the first _Castella aurea_, through which I travailed. _Peru_ is held to be yet more rich a Countrey then is _Mexico_; for although it hath not the conveniency of trafique by the North Sea, which _Mexico_ hath; but doth send the Commodities in it to _Panama_, and from thence transports them either over the straight _Isthmus_, or by the River _Chiagre_ to _Portabel_ upon the North Sea; yet the Countrey is farre richer then _Mexico_, by reason of the more abundance of Mines of silver which are in it.
The mountaines named _Potosi_ are thought to be of no other metall, which the King of _Spain_ will not have to be opened until they have exhausted those which are already discovered and digged, and have found the _Spaniards_ worke enough, and yeelded them treasure enough ever since they first conquered those parts. The soile is very fruitfull of all such fruits as are found in _Spain_. The Olives are bigger then those of _Spain_, the oyle sweeter and cleerer. The Grapes yeeld also a wine farre stronger then any of _Spain_, and there is much made, by reason it cannot conveniently bee brought from _Spain_. There is likewise wheat in great store; and all this fruitfull soile lyeth low under high Mountaines which divide betwixt _Indians_ not as yet conquered and _Brasile_. But those Mountaines are a great helpe unto those pleasant Valleys with the waters that fall from them; for in all those parts inhabited by _Spaniards_ towards the South Sea, it is most certain and most observable that it never raineth, in so much that the houses are uncovered on the tops, and onely matts laid over them to keep off the dust, and yet is this Countrey what with the waters that fall from the Mountaines, what with the morning and evening dewes, as fruitfull and plentifull as any Countrey in the World.
The chief City is called _Lima_, where there is a Viceroy and a Court of Chancery, and an Arch-Bishop. It hath a Port some two miles from it named _Callau_; where lie the ships that convey yearly the treasure of that Kingdome to _Panama_. There lie also other ships, which trafique to the _East-India's_, and to all the Coasts of _Guatemala_, and to _Acapulco_ the Southern Haven of _Mexico_. This Port of _Callau_ is not so strong as the great, nay inestimable wealth that is commonly in it and in the City of _Lima_ should require, for I have heard many _Spaniards_ say, that in the yeare 1620. a few ships of _Hollanders_ (as some say) or of _English_ (as others affirme) appeared before the Haven waiting for the ships that were to convey the Kings revenews to _Panama_, and hearing that they were departed (though by a false report) followed them, and so forsooke the attempting to take the _Callau_; which certainly had they manly attempted, they had taken it, and in it the greatest treasure that in any one part of the world could have beene found.
But the _Spaniards_ seldome see thereabout foraine ships, and so live more carelesly in securing or strengthning that Coast. Though _Peru_ bee thus rich in fruits and Mines, yet _Chille_ farre exceedeth it in gold; which edgeth the _Spaniards_ to a constant and continuall Warre with the Inhabitants, which are a strong, warlike, and most valiant people. They are grown as skilfull in the use of weapons, swords, Pistols and Muskets as the _Spaniards_, and have taken many _Spaniards_, men and women prisoners; and or the _Spanish_ women have had so many children, called _Mestizoes_, that by them (who have proved most valiant) they have much increased both their strength and skill. They hold the _Spaniards_ hard to it, and the War is become the most dangerous of any the _Spaniards_ have; in so much that the Counsell of _Spain_ doth pick out from _Flanders_ and _Italy_, the best souldiers to send them thither. And a Captaine that hath served long, well and faithfully in _Flanders_, by way of credit and promotion is sent to the Warres of _Chille_, to fight for that great treasure of gold, which certainly is there. The _Spaniards_ have in it three faire Cities; the _Conception_ (which is a Bishops Seat) and _Santiago_, and _Valdivia_. This last is so named from one _Valdivia_, who was Governour of it, and the first cause and author of those Wars.
This man was so extraordinarily covetous of the gold of that Countrey, that hee would not let the _Indians_ possesse or injoy any of it themselves; but did vex them, whip, and beat, yea and kill some of them, because they brought him not enough, and imployed them daily in seeking it out for him, charging them with a tax and imposition of so much a day: which the _Indians_ not being able to performe, nor to satisfie an unsatiable minde and greedy covetousnesse, resolved to rebell, but so that first they would fill and satiate his heart with gold so that hee should never more covet after that yellow and glittering metall. Wherefore they joyned and combined themselves together in a warlike posture, and tooke some quantity of gold and melted it, and with it resolutely came upon _Valdivia_ the Governour, saying, O _Valdivia_ we see thou hast a greedy and unsatiable minde and desire after our gold; wee have not been able to satisfie thee with it hitherto; but now wee have devised a way to satiate this thy greedy covetousnesse; here is now enough, drink thy full of it; and with these words they tooke him, and powred the melted gold downe his throat, wherewith he died, never more coveting after that bright and shining drosse, and naming with his name and death that City of _Valdivia_, and with his covetousnesse leaving a rebellion which hath continued to a cruell and bloody War unto this day.
_Guiana_ and _Brasile_ I shall omit to speak of, not having been in any part of them. _Brasile_ is little talked of by the _Spaniards_, belonging to the Crowne of _Portugall_, and now part of it to the high and mighty States of the _Netherlands_, who will better satisfie by their Histories, and acquaint _Europe_ with the riches that are in it.
I return unto the first part mentioned by me in the Southern and _Peruan_ Tract, which was said to bee _Castella aurea_, golden _Castile_, so called for the abundance of gold that is found in it. This containeth the Northern part of _Peruana_, and part of the _Isthmus_, which runneth between the North and South Sea. Besides the gold in it, yet it is admirably stored with silver, Spices, Pearls, and medicinall Herbes. It is divided into foure Provinces. The first is called _Castella del oro_; the second, _Nova Andaluzia_; the third _Nova Granada_; the fourth, _Carthagena. Castella del oro_ is situated in the very _Isthmus_, and is not very populous by reason of the unhealthfulnesse of the aire, and noisome savour of the standing pooles. The chief places belonging to the _Spaniards_, are first _Theonimay_, or _Nombre de Dios_ on the East; the second, which is six leagues from _Nombre de Dios_ is _Portabel_, now chiefly inhabited by the _Spaniards_ and Mulattoes, and Blackmores, and _Nombre de Dios_ almost utterly forsaken by reason of its unhealthfulnesse. The ships which were wont to anchor in _Nombre de Dios_, and there to take in the Kings treasure, which is yeerly brought from _Peru_ to _Panama_, and from thence to the North Sea, now harbour themselves in _Portabel_; which signifyeth _Porto bello_, a faire and goodly Haven, for so indeed it is, and well fortified at the entrance with three Castles, which can reach and command one another.
The third and chiefe place belonging to the _Spaniards_ in _Castella del oro_ is _Panama_, which is on the Westside and upon the South Sea. This City and _Nombre de Dios_ were both built by _Didacus de Niquesa_. And _Nombre de Dios_ was so called, because _Niquesa_ having been crossed with many mischances and misadventures at Sea, when hee came to this place greatly rejoyced, and bad his men now goe on shore in _Nombre de Dios_, in the name of God. But as I have before observed, the aire being here very unhealthy, the King of _Spain_ in the yeare 1584. commanded the houses of _Nombre de Dios_ to be pulled downe, and to be rebuilt in a more healthy and convenient place: which was performed by _Peter Arias_ in _Portabel_. But being now upon _Nombre de Dios_, I should wrong my Country if I should not set out to the publike view the worth of her people shewed upon this place, and to this day talked on and admired by the _Spaniards_, who doe not only remember Sir _Francis Drake_, & teach their children to dread and fear even his name for his attempts upon _Carthagena_ and all the coast about, and especially upon _Nombre de Dios_, and from it marching as farre as the great mountaine called _St. Pablo_ towards _Panama_: but furthermore keep alive amongst them (and in this my History it shall not die) the name of one of Sir _Francis Drake_ his followers and Captains named _John Oxenham_, whose attempt on this coast was resolute and wonderfull.
This Noble and gallant Gentleman arriving with threescore and ten souldiers in his company as resolute as himselfe, a little above this Towne of _Nombre de Dios_ drew a land his ship, and covering it with boughes, marched over the land with his Company guided by _Black-mores_, untill he came to a river. Where he cut downe wood, made him a Pinnace, entred the South-sea, went to the Island of Pearles, where hee lay ten daies waiting for a prize, which happily he got (though not so happily after kept it) for from that Island he set upon two _Spanish_ ships, and finding them unable to fight, he speedily made them yeeld, and intercepted in them threescore thousand pound weight of gold, and two hundred thousand pound weight in barres or wedges of silver, and returned safely again to the maine land. And though by reason of a mutiny made by his owne Company he neither returned to his country nor to his hidden ship; yet was it such a strange adventure as is not to be forgotten, in that the like was never by any other attempted, and by the _Spaniards_ is to this day with much admiration recorded.
Much part of this _Castella aurea_ as yet is not subdued by the _Spaniards_, and so doubtlesse a great treasure lieth hid in it for that people and nation whose thoughts shall aspire to find it out. In the year 1637. when I chanced to be in _Panama_ returning homewards to my Country, there came thither some twenty _Indians_ Barbarians by way of peace to treate with the President of the Chancery concerning their yeelding up themselves to the government of the King of _Spaine_. But as I was informed afterwards at _Carthagena_, nothing was concluded upon, for that the _Spaniards_ dare not trust those _Indians_, whom they have found to have rebelled often against them for their hard usage and carriage towards them. These _Indians_ which then I saw were very proper, tall and lusty men, and well complexioned; and among them one of as red a haire as any our nation can shew; they had bobs of gold in their eares, and some of them little pieces of gold made like a halfe moone hanging upon their neither lips, which argues store of that treasure to be amongst them.
Unto this country is joyning _Nova Andaluzia_, which hath on the North side _Castella del oro_, and on the South _Peru_; The best Cities in it are _Tocoio_, now by the _Spaniards_ called _St. Margarets_, and another called _S. Espiritu. Nova Granada_ is situated on the South side of _Carthagena_, and from the abundance and fertility of _Granada_ in _Spaine_ it hath taken its name. The chiefe Townes and Cities in it are six. First _Tungia_, which is supposed to be directly under the _Æquator_. The second is _Tochaimum_. The third, _Popaian_, the richest of them all. The fourth, _Sta. Fee_, or _St. Faith_, an Archbishops seat, and a Court of Justice and Chancery, governed like _Panama_ and _Guatemala_, by a President and six Judges, and a Kings Attorney and two high Justices of Court, who have six thousand duckats a yeer allowed them out of the Kings treasure. The fifth City is _Palma_; and the sixth _Merida_. From _Carthagena_ through this countrey of _Granada_ lieth the rode way to _Lima_ in _Peru_, all by land. This Country is very strong by reason of the situation of it much amongst stony rockes, which compasse and environ it, and through which there are very narrow passages.
Yet it is full of pleasant valleys which do yeeld much fruit, Corne and _Indian_ Maiz. There are also in it some Mines of silver, and many golden sanded rivers. _Carthagena_, which is the last Province of _Castella aurea_, hath also a very fruitfull soil, in the which groweth a tree, which if any one do touch, he will hardly escape a poysoning.
The chiefe Cities in it are, first _Carthagena_, which Sir _Francis Drake_ in the yeer 1585. surprised, and (as the _Spaniards_ affirme) burned most part of it, and besides inestimable sums of money, took with him from thence 230 peeces of Ordnance. I dare say now it hath not so many; yet it is reasonable well fortified; though not so strong as _Portabel_. It is a faire and gallant City and very rich, by reason of the pearles which are brought to it from _Margarita_, and the Kings revenues, which from all _Nova Granada_ are sent thither. It is a Bishops seat, and hath many rich Churches and Cloisters. It is not governed by a Court of Justice and Chancery as _Sta. Fee_ is, but onely by one Governour. It hath been often moved to the Councell of _Spaine_ to have some Galleys made to runne about those Seas, and that _Carthagena_ bee the chiefe harbour of them. From this City received _England_ the losse of that little Island named _Providence_ by us, and by the _Spaniards Sta. Catalina_, which though but little, might have been of a great, nay greater advantage to our Kingdom, than any other of our plantations in _America_; which the _Spaniards_ wel understood when they set al their strength of _Carthagena_ against it; but I hope the Lord hath his time appointed when we shall advantage our selves by it again.
To this City of _Carthagena_ cometh every yeer also in small Frigots most of the Indigo, Cochinil & Sugar, which is made in the country of _Guatemala_, the _Spaniards_ thinking it safer to ship these their goods in little Frigots upon the lake of _Granada_ in _Nicaragua_, & from thence to send them to _Carthagena_ to be shipped with the Galeons that come from _Portabel_ with the treasure of _Peru_, than to send them by the ships of _Honduras_, which have often been a prey unto the _Hollanders_. These frigots were thought by the _Spaniards_ to come too neer the reach of _Providence_, and therefore it hath been their care and providence to remove us from this reach of their Frigots. The second great Towne of this Countrey of _Carthagena_ is _Abuida_. The third _Sta. Martha_, which is a rich government of _Spaniards_, and doth much fear our _English_ and _Holland_ ships; it is seated on the river _de Abuida_, otherwise called _St. John_ and _Rio di Grand_. There is also _Venezuela_ and _New-Caliz_, great, rich, and strong Townes. And these three last regions, _Andaluzia Nova, Nova Granada_, and _Carthagena_ are by the _Spaniards_ called _Tierra firme_, or firme land, for that they are the strength of _Peru_ from the North, and the basis of this reversed _Pyramis_.