Chapter I. · Part 8

CHAP. XVII.

_Shewing my journy from the City of_ Chiapa, _unto_ Guatemala, _and the chief places in the way._

The time now being come that I was to leave the little City of _Chiapa_, I took some occasion before-hand to take my leave of my best friends, whose children I had taught, and at my departure I must confesse I found them kind and bountifull, except it were _Donna Magdalena de Morales_, from whom I did not expect, neither did I desire any farewell, or Adieu token. But among all, the Governours wife was most liberall unto mee, sending mee many boxes of Aromaticall Chocolatte, and one extraordinary great box with foure severall divisions of different conserves gilt over, besides many Maple breads, and Biskets made with Egs and Sugar, a present it was which might have been sent to a greater man then to a poor worthlesse Mendicant Fryer, and with this in a handkerchief a dozen peeces of eight. _Don Melchor del Velazco_ yet exceeded her, in words and complements I meane, but in deeds, hee and all the crew of the Criolians must thinke to come short of them, who are borne in _Spain_. The first Town I went unto, was _Theopixca_, six leagues from _Chiapa_, a faire and great Towne of _Indians_, who are held to bee next unto the _Indians_ of the other _Chiapa_ in sitting and riding a horse. In this town is nothing so considerable as the Church, which is great and strong, and the musick belonging unto it sweet and harmonious. The Vicar or Curate of this place was one Fryer _Peter Martir_ a Criolian, whom I knew could not indure the Prior nor mee, yet he would dissemble a love complementall exceeding well, and in outward shews raise it up to _gradus ut Octo_. He knowing my prevalency with the Prior, durst not but give mee very good entertainment, which continued two dayes, untill I was weary of his complements.

The third day I tooke my leave of him, who would not yet leave mee, but would conduct mee to _Comitlan_, whither I was invited by the Prior of that Cloister, named Fryer _Thome Rocolano_, a _French_ man, who being a stranger to the _Spaniards_ (for besides him and my selfe there was no other stranger in that County) desired acquaintance with mee, which hee began to settle by meeting mee at the half way with many _Indians_ on horse back, having provided an harbour where wee might more conveniently conferre and rest while our Chocolatte and other refreshments were provided. But the Criolian _Peter Martir_ was not a little envious, (as I was afterwards informed in the Cloister) to see mee so much made of and esteemed in the Country, yet his faire words and complements farre exceeded the sincerity and down-rightnesse of my _French_ friend. At _Comitlan_ I staied a whole weeke, riding about with the Prior unto the _Indian_ townes, and downe the hill to the valley of _Copanabastla_, where I injoyed much pastime and recreation among the Fryers and _Indians_ and was feasted after the manner of that Country, which knoweth more of an Epicurian diet then doth _England_, or any part of _Europe_; nay I am perswaded (and I have heard _Spaniards_ confesse it) that _Spain_ hath taken from the _Indians_ since the conquest many lessons for the dressing of severall dishes and compleating a feast or banquet.

After the week was ended my _French_ friend the Prior conducted mee to _Izquintenango_, to see mee well furnished up the Mountaines of _Cuchumatlanes_. This Towne (as I have formerly observed) standeth almost at the end of the Valley of _Copanabastla_, and within two leagues of the _Cuchumatlanes_. It is one of the finest _Indian_ Townes of all the Province of _Chiapa_, and very rich, by reason of the much Cotton wooll in it, and especially by reason of its situation, for standing in the Roade way to _Guatemala_, all the Merchants of the Country that trade with their mules that way, passe through this Towne, and there buy and sell, enriching it with mony and farre brought Commodities. It is most plentifully stored with fruits, especially with what they call Pina's or Pine fruit. It standeth close by the great River, which runneth to _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, and hath its spring not farre off from the _Cuchumatlanes_, and yet at this Town is very broad and deep. No man nor beast travelling to _Guatemala_ can goe into it, or from _Guatemala_ can goe out of it, but by ferrying over.

And the Rode being much used and beaten by travellers, and by such as they call Requas of mules (every Requa consisting of fifty or threescore mules) this Ferry is day and night imployed, and yeelds much treasure to the town at the yeers end. The _Indians_ of the Town besides the ferry boat, have made many other little boats, or Canoa's to goe up and down the River. Hither when the Prior of _Comitlan_ had brought me, we were waited for by the Vicar or Fryer of that Town with the chief and principall _Indians_, and most of the Canoa's. As we ferryed over, the little Canoa's went before us with the Quiristers of the Church singing before us, and with others sounding their Waits and Trumpets. The Fryer that lived in this Town, was called Fryer _Geronymo de Guevara_, little in stature, but great in state, pride and vanity, as hee shewed himself in what hee had provided for us both of fish and flesh. A brave professour or vower of Mendicancy and poverty he was, who in twelve yeers that hee had lived in that Towne, what by mumming of Masses for the dead and living, what by shearing and fleecing the poore _Indians_, what by trading and traffiquing with the Merchants that used that Rode, had got six thousand Duckats, which hee had sent to _Spain_ to the Court of _Madrid_, to trade with them Simoniacally for the Bishoprick of _Chiapa_, which if he obtained not, (yet when I came out of that Country the report went that hee had obtained it) hee would and was well able with a second supply to obtaine a better.

After two daies feasting with him, hee and the Prior of _Comitlan_ both joyned their power and authority to see mee well manned with _Indians_, to the first Towne of the _Cuchumatlanes_. A mule was prepared to carry my bedding, (which wee commonly carried with us in chests of leather called Petaca's) another _Indian_ to carry my Petaquilla wherein was my Chocolatte and all implements to make it; and three more _Indians_ to ride before and behinde to guide me; but to all these nothing was to be paid, (lest a custome of paying should bee brought in, for so they doctrined mee as a novice in that Country) except it were to give them a cup of Chocolatte if I drank in the way, or when I came to my journeys end. Here I tooke my leave of my good _French_ friend, (who yet continued friendship with mee by frequent letters to _Guatemala_) and of my low but high minded _Guevara_, who bad mee expect no friendly entertainment, untill I were well passed over the _Cuchumatlanes_ and arrived at _Sacapula_, which was foure daies journey from thence. Yet hee told mee I might demand what service I list from the _Indians_, and call for what I had a minde to eat without paying any mony, so that I did write down my expences in the common Town Book.

Thus I went away from my friends somewhat heavy having no other company but unknowne _Indians_, leaving a pleasant and delightsome valley behind mee, and seeing nothing before mee but high and steepy hils and mountaines, and considering that in foure or five dayes I should see no more gallant Dominicans and of mine own profession. Now I wished I had the company of my _Melendez_ and other friends, who were a comfort one to another upon the hills and rocks of _Maquilapa_. Yet at last I concluded, up _English_ heart and courage, _quondam hæc meminisse juvabit_. Though the mountaines seemed high afar off, yet as I travelled on, I found the way lie between them very easie and passable, and met now and then Requas of mules, which were no little comfort unto mee to consider, if they being heavily laden could goe through those Mountaines, my mule that had in mee but a light burden would easily overcome any danger; it comforted mee also to consider that there were Townes (though but little ones) where I might rest every night.

The further I went, the better and more open I found the Rode; Onely the raine and dirt troubled me, which I could not avoid, it being the end of _September_, or as there they reckon, the end of winter. The first Town I came to amongst those Mountaines was called St. _Martin_, a little place of some twenty houses; I went to the house that belonged to the Franciscan Fryers (who seldome in the yeer came to that poverty of house and house roome) where I lighted and caused the _Indians_ to bee called who were appointed to give attendance to travellers and passengers. I found them very tractable and dutifull, bidding mee welcome, bringing mee hot water for my Chocolatte, which I drunke off heartily, and gave unto my _Indians_ of _Izquintenango_, who refreshed themselves and their mules well for nothing, this being a custome among those Townes in the Rode to welcome one another whensoever they come with travellers. I might have had for my supper any thing that place would afford, but I made choice of a pullet, which I thought would bee cheapest for the poore _Indians_.

I was glad I had brought with mee a good big Frasco, as they call it, or bottle of wine, for I began already to find the _Cuchumatlanes_ cooler then the valley of _Copanabastla_. My bed was made in a little thatched Cobe, and _Indian_ boyes appointed to sleep in the next room to me, and to be at hand if in the night I should want any thing. Thus having appointed what attendance I had need of in the morning to the next Town, discharging the _Indians_ that had brought me from _Izquintenango_, I went unto my rest, which I tooke as quietly as if I had been in the company of my best friends. The next day being accompanied by two _Indians_, having sent my carriage by another, I tooke my journey to the next Towne, which is called _Cuchumatlan grande_, because it standeth on the highest part of those Mountaines, and in the way the _Indians_ shewed mee the head spring or fountaine of the great River of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, which is the onely remarkable thing in that Rode.

_Cuchumatlan grande_ is a Towne a little bigger then St. _Martin_, and of _Indians_ very curteous, who are used and beaten to daily travellers, and so make very much of them. Here I was entertained as the night before; and found the poore _Indians_ willing to give mee whatsoever I demanded for my better and safer guiding and conducting the next day, and that night for my supper what I pleased to call for, without any pay, but onely writing down my name and expences with the day and moneth in their common booke of accounts. This are those poore wretches brought to by the Fryers and commanding Justices, though of themselves they have no more then a Milpa of Maiz as they terme it, or a little _Indian_ Wheat Plantation, with as much Chile as will suffice them for the yeer, and what the Merchants and Travellers give them voluntarily, which is little enough. From this Town I would not follow the Rode to the next, which was a long journy of seven or eight leagues without baiting by the way; and also because I had beene informed at _Chiapa_ and at _Copanabastla_ of a strange picture of our Lady, which was amongst these Mountaines in a little Towne of _Indians_ called _Chiantla_, which in this dayes journy being not above a league out of my way, I was resolved to see.

The wayes were bad, lying out of the Rode, yet by noon I got to _Chiantla_, which is a Town belonging unto Mercenarian Fryers, who doubtlesse would not be able to subsist in so poore a place, had they not invented that loadstone of their picture of _Mary_, and cried it up for miraculous, to draw people farre and neere, and all travellers from the Rode to pray unto it, and to leave their gifts and almes unto them for their prayers and Masses. Such an income of treasure and riches hath beene from deluded and ignorant soules to this beggerly Towne, that the Fryers have had wherewith to build a Cloister able to maintaine foure or five of them. The Church is richly furnished, but especially the high Altar where the picture standeth in a Tabernacle with half a dozen curtaines of Silk, Sattin, cloth of gold, with borders of golden lace before it, wearing a rich Crowne of gold, thickly beset with Diamonds and other pretious stones. There hang before it at least a dozen rich lampes of silver; and in the vestry of the Church are many gownes, Candlestickes of silver, Censers to burn Frankincense before it, besides rich Copes, Vestments, Ornaments for the Altar, and hangings for all the Church.

To conclude, here is a treasure hid in the Mountaines; Oh that it could bee found out to doe the Lord service. I was welcomed to this place by those Fryers, who were strangers unto mee; my head was filled that day by them with relations of strange and many miracles or lies, which they told mee of that picture; but the heavinesse of my head did mee good in something, for it made mee more drowsie at night and apter to take good rest. The next day I got into the Rode againe, and went to the last Town of these _Cuchumatlanes_ called _Chautlan_, where I stayed all that day and night, and sent before a letter to the Prior of _Sacapula_ of my going thither the next day. In _Chautlan_ I was very kindly used by the _Indians_, and liked the Towne the better for the excellent grapes which there I found, not planted like vineyards, but growing up in harbours, which shew that if that land were planted, it would certainly yeeld as good grapes for wine, as any are in _Spain_.

They are carried from that place to _Guatemala_, which stands from it neer forty leagues, and are sold about the streets for rarities and great dainties; and well may they, for from _Mexico_ to _Guatemala_ there are none like them. The next morning I made haste to be gone, that I might come sooner to _Sacapula_, where I was to finde those of mine owne profession, with whom I knew I might stay and rest a whole weeke if I pleased. I had not rid above three leagues, when I began to discover at a low and deep bottome, a pleasant and goodly valley, laced with a River, whose waters receiving the glorious brightnesse of _Phoebus_ beames reverberated up to the top of the Mountaine, a delightsome prospect to the beholders; the more I hasted to that seeming Paradise, the more did the twinkling and wanton streame invite mee downe the hill; which I had no sooner descended, but I found in an harbour by the water side the Prior of _Sacapula_ himselfe with a good traine of _Indians_ waiting for mee with a cup of Chocolatte.

At the first light I was a little daunted to behold the Prior, who looked most fearfully with a bladder from his throat swelled almost round his necke, which hung over his shoulders and brest, and stayed up his chin, and lifted up his head so, that hee could scarce looke any whither but up to heaven. In our discourse he told mee that disease had beene upon him at least ten yeers, and that the water of that River had caused it in him, and in many others of that Town. This made mee now as much out of love with the River, as above the hill I had liked the goodly sight of it, and therefore resolved not to stay so long in that place as I had thought, lest the waters should marke me for all my life, as they had done this Prior; whose name was Fryer _John De la Cruz_, a Biscaine borne, and (like some of that Nation) a little troubled with the simples, but a good hearted man, humble, and well beloved over all the Country both by _Spaniards_ and _Indians_.

When I came to the Towne I discovered many men and women with bladders in their throats like the poore Prior, which made mee almost unwilling to drink there any Chocolatte made with that water, or eat any thing dressed with it; untill the Prior did much incourage mee and told mee that it did not hurt all but onely some, and those who did drink it cold; wherewith I resolved to stay there foure or five daies, because of the old Priors importunity, who would faine have had mee continue to live with him, promising to teach mee the _Indian_ language in a very short time. But higher matters calling mee to _Guatemala_, I excused my selfe, and continued there five dayes with much recreation. The Town though it be not in the generall very rich, yet there are some _Indian_ Merchants who trade about the country and especially to _Suchutepeques_ where is the chief store of Cacao, and thereby some of this Towne of _Sacapula_, have inriched themselves; the rest of the people trade in pots and pans, which they make of an earth there fit for that purpose.

But the principall Merchandize of this place is salt, which they gather in the morning from the ground that lyeth neere the River. The aire is hot, by reason the Town standeth low, and compassed with high hills on every side. Besides many good fruits which are here, there are Dates as good as those that come from _Barbary_, and many trees of them in the Garden belonging to the Cloister. After I had here wearied out the wearinesse, which I brought in my bones from the _Cuchumatlanes_, I departed taking my way to _Guatemala_, and from _Sacapula_ I went to a Town called St. _Andres_, or St. _Andrews_, which standeth six or seven leagues from _Sacapula_, a great Town, but nothing remarkable in it, save onely Cotton wooll and Turkies, and about it some rich Estancia's or Farmes of Cattell, which are commodiously seated here, it being a plain Champaigne Country. Yet at further end of this plain there is a Mountaine which discourageth with the sight all such as travell to _Guatemala_; from St. _Andres_ I prepared my selfe for the next daies journey, which was of nine long leagues, to a very great Town called by two names, by some _Sacualpa_, by others Sta.

_Maria Zojabah_, to the which I could not goe without passing over that Mountaine. I sent word of going to _Zojabah_ the day before (as is the custome there) that mules and horses might meet mee upon the Mountaine; and the night before I went to a Rancho (which is a lodge built for travellers to rest when the journey is long) which stood within a league of the Mountaine by a River, where with the waters murmur, and refreshing gales I tooke good rest. In the morning having refreshed my selfe, and my _Indians_ with Chocolatte I set out to incounter with that proud Mountaine; and when I came unto it I found it not so hard to overcome, as I had conceited, the way lying with windings and turnings; But the higher I mounted the more my eyes were troubled with looking to the River below, whose rockes were enough to astonish and make a stout heart tremble. About the middle of the Mountaine the _Indians_ of _Zojabah_ met with a mule for mee, and another for my carriage in a narrow passage where the way went wheeling.

Here I lighted, whilst the _Indians_ helped one another to unload and load the mule that came of refresh. Out of the narrow way the side of the Mountaine was steepy, and a fearefull precipice of two or three miles to the bottome, almost bare of trees, here and there one onely growing. My heart was true unto mee, wishing mee to walke up a foot untill I came unto some broader passage; but the _Indians_ perceiving my feare told me there was no danger, assuring mee further that the Mule they had brought was sure, and had been well used to that mountaine. With their perswasions I got up, but no sooner was I mounted when the Mule began to play her prankes and to kick, and to leap out of the way, casting me down and herselfe, both rouling and tumbling a pace to the rockes and death, had not a shrub prevented me, and a tree stopped the Mules blind fury. The _Indians_ cried out, _milagro, milagro_, miracle, miracle, _Santo, Santo_, a Saint, a Saint, to me so loud as if they would have had their cry reach to _Rome_ to helpe forward my canonization; for many such miracles have some been noised at _Rome_, and with further contribution of mony have been enrolled in the booke and Catalogue of Saints.

Whilst the _Indians_ helped me up and brought the Mule againe into the way, they did nothing but flatter me with this terme Saint; which they needed not have done, if as they considered my dangerous fall and stopping at a shrub (which was by chance, and not by miracle) they had further considered my passion and hasty wrath (not befitting a Saint) wherewith I threatned to bast their ribs for deceiving mee with a yong Mule not well accustomed to the saddle. But all my hasty words and anger could not discredit me with them, nor lessen their conceipt of my holinesse and sanctity, who hold the anger and wrath of a Preist to be the breath of Gods nostrils, and with this their foolish conceipt of mee, they kneeled before me kissing my hands. The businesse being further examined, they confessed that they had been mistaken in the Mules, having sadled for me that which should have carried my Petaca's, or leatherne chests, which was a young Mule accustomed onely to carriages, and not to the saddle, and upon that which should have been sadled they put my carriage.

Whilst they unloaded and loaded again and sadled the right Mule, I walked up the hill about a mile, and when they overtooke me I got up and rid till I met with my refreshing harbour and Chocolatte, and many _Indians_ that came to receive me, among whom it was presently noised that I was a Saint and had wrought a miracle in the way; with this the rest of the _Indians_ kneeled to me and kissed my hands, and in the way that we went to the Towne, all their talk was of my sanctity. I was much vexed at their simplicity, but the more they saw mee unwilling to accept of that honour, the more they pressed it upon me. When I came to the Town I told the Frier what had happened, and what the foolish _Indians_ had conceited; at which he laughed, and told me that he would warrant me if I staied long in the Towne, all the men and women would come to kisse my hands and to offer their gifts unto me. He knew well their qualities, or else had taught them this superstition with many others; for no sooner had we dined, but many were gathered to the Church to see the Saint that was come to their Towne, and that had wrought a miracle in the mountaine as he came.

With this I began to be more troubled then before at the folly of the simple people, and desired the Fryer to checke and rebuke them, who by no means would, but rather laughed at it, saying, that in policy we ought to accept of any honour from the _Indians_, for as long as we had credit and an opinion of Saints among them, so long we should prevaile to do any thing with them, yea even to command them and their fortunes at our pleasure. With this I went downe with the Frier to the Church, and sate downe with him in a chaire in the Quire, representing the person of such a Saint as they imagined me to be, though in reality and truth but a wretched sinner.

No sooner had we taken up our places, when the _Indians_, men, women, and children came up by three and four, or whole families to the Quire, first kneeling down for my blessing, and then kissing my hands, they began to speake to me in their _Indian_ complements to this purpose, that their Town was happy and doubtlesse blessed from heaven by my coming into it, and that they hoped their soules should be much the better if they might partake of my praiers to God for them. And for this purpose some offered unto me money, some hony, some egs, some little mantles, some Plantins, and other fruits, some fowles, and some Turkeys. The Frier that sate by me I perceived was overjoyed with this, for he knew I was to be gone, and would leave unto him all those offerings. I desired him to make answer unto the _Indians_ in my behalfe, excusing me as not well versed in their language (yet the fooles if they thought and judged me to be a Saint, might have expected from me also the gift of tongues) which he did telling them that I had been but a while in that Country, and though I understood part of their language, yet could not speake nor pronounce it perfectly, and therefore from me he did give them hearty thankes for the great love they had shewed unto an Ambassadour of God, witnessing it with so many sorts of offerings, which assuredly should remind him and mee of our offerings for them, in our praiers and hearty recommendations of them and their children unto God.

Thus was that ceremony ended, the _Indians_ dismissed, and the Frier and I went up to a chamber, where he began to tell his egs and fowles and to dispose of some of them for our supper; he told me he would take them, but at my departure would give me somewhat for them; he bad me keep what money they had given me, and told me I was welcome unto him, and no burdensome guesse, but very profitable, who had brought with me store of provision for my selfe and for him many daies after. The money I received came to fourty Rials, besides twenty which he gave me for the other offerings, which might be worth fourty more; all this I got for having a fall from a Mule, and for not breaking my necke. I would faine have departed the next morning, but _John Vidall_ (so was the Frier named) would not permit me, for that the next journey was of at least ten leagues, and therefore he would have me rest my selfe the next day.

This Towne of _Zojabah_, or _Sacualpa_ is the biggest and fairest of all the Towns that belong unto the Priory of _Sacapula_; the _Indians_ are rich, and make of their Cotton-wool many mantles, they have plenty of hony, and great flocks of goats and kids; but here, nor in all the Townes behind there is no wheat, save only _Indian_ Maiz. The next day some small offerings fell unto mee, but nothing like the day before; and so I told the Frier, that now the peoples devotion was decaied, I would bee gone in the morning before day. That night the chiefe _Indians_ of the Towne came to offer their service and attendance upon me to a Rancho or lodge that standeth in the middle way; but I would not accept of the great ones, but desired that I might have three onely of the meaner sort to guide mee till I met with company from the Towne whither I was going, and whither I had sent warning of my comming. The time appointed was three of the clock in the morning; at which houre after a little sleep I was called, and having drunke my Chocolatte, and eat a maple bread with a little conserve, I prepared my selfe for my journey, and found the _Indians_ ready waiting for me in the yard, with pieces of pine-wood, which burn like torches, and with which they use to travell in the night, and to shew the way to him whom they guide.

A little from the Towne wee had some craggy wayes, which indeed had need of lights, but afterwards we came into a plaine champaigne Countrey, which continued till within a league of the middle way lodge; to the which we were to descend a steep hill. When we came thither (which was about seven in the morning) we found our fresh supply waiting for us, who had set out from their Towne at midnight to meet us (note the _Indians_ subjection to their Preists command) and had made us a fire, and warmed water for our Chocolatte. Which whilst I was drinking, the _Indians_ of _Zojabah_, who had guided me thither, gave notice to those that came to receive from _St. Martin_ (so was the Towne called whither I was that day minded) of my miracle and sanctity, wishing them to reverence and respect me in the way. But not for this their foolish report did I make the _Indians_ of _Zojabah_ drinke every one a cup of Chocolatte, and so dismissed them; and took forwards my journey to _St.

Martin_. Most of the way was hilly and craggy till we came within two miles of the Towne; to the which we arrived by noone. This Towne is cold, standing high, yet pleasant for the prospect almost to _Guatemala_; here, and in most of the Towns about it is most excellent wheat. The hony of this Towne is the best in the Countrey; but above all it furnisheth _Guatemala_ with Quailes, Partridges, and Rabbits. It is the first Towne wee enter into belonging to the City and command of _Guatemala_; which did not a little comfort me, that now I wanted but one good journey to make an end of my long, tedious and wearisome travelling. The Frier of this Towne named _Thomas de la Cruz_ belonged unto the Dominican Cloister of _Guatemala_; he was a Criolian, but yet he entertained me very lovingly. I staied with him but that night. And in the morning (though I might have gone to dinner to _Guatemala_) I would needs goe by the way to one of the biggest Townes in that Countrey, called _Chimaltenango_, standing in an open valley three leagues from the City, consisting of a thousand house-keepers, and rich _Indians_ who trade much about the Countrey.

In this Towne in my time there was one _Indian_, who alone had bestowed upon the Church five thousand duckates. The Church yeelds to none in the City of _Guatemala_, and in musick it exceeds most about the Country. The chief feast of _Chimaltenango_ is upon the 26. day of _July_, (which they call St. _Annes_ day) and then is the richest faire that ever my eyes beheld in those parts of all sorts of Merchants and Merchandize; It is further set forth with Bull-baiting, Horse-racing, Stage-playes, Maskes, dances, Musick, and all this gallantly performed by the _Indians_ of the Town. The Fryer of this Town was a Dominican, belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans of _Guatemala_, named _Alonso Hidalgo_, a foure eyed old man, for hee alwaies wore spectacles. Hee was a _Spaniard_ borne, but having beene brought up in that Country from his youth, and having taken his habit and vowes in _Guatemala_ amongst the Criolians, hee degenerated from his birth and Country-men, hating all such as came from _Spain_. Hee was a deadly enemy to the Provinciall (ayming indeed himselfe to bee Provinciall with the favour of the Criolians) and so I perceived hee would have picked a quarrell with mee, whilst I was with him; hee told mee I was welcome, though hee had little reason to bid any welcome that had come from _Spain_, who hee thought came but to supplant those that had been born and brought up there in their own Country, and that for ought hee knew, I learning the language of those _Indians_ might one day dispossesse him of that Towne, wherein hee had continued above ten yeers; hee envied much against the Provinciall and Fryer _John Baptist_ the Prior of _Guatemala_, whom hee knew to bee my friend; But to all this I answered not a word, respecting his grave and old age, and Crystall spectacles.

At last he told mee that hee had heard say, that the _Indians_ of _Zojabah_ had cried mee up for a Saint, which hee could not beleeve of any that came from _Spain_, much lesse of mee that came from _England_ a countrey of hereticks; but hee feared rather that I might come as a spie, to view the riches of that their Country, and betray them hereafter to _England_; and that in _Guatemala_ there were many rich pieces, especially a picture of our Lady, and a lampe in the Cloister of the Dominicans, which he doubted not but I would bee carefull to pry into. But all this I put up with a jest, saying, that I would bee sure to take notice first of the riches of his chamber in pictures, hangings, and rich Cabinets, and that if the _English_ came thither in my time, I would surely conduct them to it; and if hee himselfe would but cause a set of teeth of silver to bee set in his gums and jawes in stead of those leaden ones, (for hee was so old that hee had lost all his teeth, and had got some of lead in their stead) then surely I would also conduct the _English_ to him as to a rich prize for his teeth, and that I would warrant him hee should bee well used for his outward and inward riches; and that this my counsell might bee profitable and of consequence to him, I told him; for if the _English_ should come, certainly they would try of what metall his teeth were made, thinking that they might bee of some rare and exquisite substance found onely in that Country, and so might cause him to drink such hot and scalding broth, (to try whether they were lead) as might melt them in his mouth, and make the melted lead runne downe his throat,

which if they were of silver, they would not doe. Hee perceived I jeared him, and so hee let mee alone; I was glad I had put him out of his former byas of rayling; so dinner being ended, I told him I would not stay supper, but goe to _Guatemala_ to a light supper in the Cloister, for that hee had given mee such a dinner, as I feared I should not have digested it in few daies. I desired him to let me have _Indians_ to guide me to _Guatemala_, which he willingly performed, peradventure fearing that if I stayed supper with him, I should melt the teeth in his mouth with some scalding cup of my Chocolatte brought from _Chiapa_, or that in the night I should rifle or plunder his chamber of his rich Idols and Ebony Cabinets. The _Indians_ being come, I made hast to be gone from that four eyed beast, being now desirous of a constant rest in _Guatemala_. Within a league from this Town of _Chimaltenango_, the Rode way leaving that open, wide, and spatious valley, contracts and gathereth in it selfe between hils and mountaines standing on each side, and so continueth to the City.

From this Valley unto _Guatemala_, neither is there any ascent or descent but a plaine, broad and sandy way. The eye hath much to view, though compassed with Mountaines, in these two last leagues; for yet it may behold a Town of _Indians_ which taketh up most of the way, and is counted as big as _Chimaltenango_, if not bigger, the houses lying scattered with a distance one from another, mingled with many fair buildings of _Spaniards_, who resort much thither from the City for their recreation. This Town is called _Xocotenango_, of a fruit named Xocotte, which is most plentifull there, and all about the Country; it is fresh and cooling, of a yellow colour when ripe, and of two sorts, some sweet, and others sowre, of the stones whereof the _Indians_ make a fire; they lie so thick in the way, dropping from the trees for want of gathering and spending them all, that the _Spaniards_ have begun to practise the buying of Hogs on purpose to let them runne about that high way, finding that they fat as speedily and as well with those plummes, as our Hogs doe in _England_ with Akorns.

All this way are also many faire gardens, which supply the Markets of _Guatemala_ with herbs, roots, fruits, and flowers all the yeer. There are further in this Rode three water mills for the corn of the City, whereof the chief and the richest belongs to the Dominican Fryers of _Guatemala_, who keep there a Fryer constantly with three or foure Blackmores to doe and oversee the worke; What will not those Fryers doe to satisfie their covetous mindes? Even dusty Millars they will become to get wealth. The Frontispice of the Church of this Town is judged one of the best pieces of worke thereabouts; the high Altar within is also rich and stately, being all daubed with gold. I made no stay in this place, because I knew I should have many occasions after my setling in the City to come unto it. And thus keeping between the hils I continued on my journey till I came to _Guatemala_, whose Dominions, riches and greatnesse the following chapter shall largely shew.

CHAP. XVIII.

_Describing the Dominions, Government, Riches, and greatnesse of the City of_ Guatemala, _and Country belonging unto it._

I had not rid on above a mile from the Church of _Xocotenango_, when the hils and Mountaines seemed to depart one from another, leaving a more spatious object for the eye to behold, and a wider Valley to wander in. The fame of that City from _Mexico_ and _Chiapa_ had raised up my thoughts to conceit of some strong walls, Towers, Forts or Bulwarks to keep out an aspiring or attempting enemy; But when I came neere and least thought of it, I found my self in it without entring through walls, or gates, or passing over any bridge, or finding any watch or guard to examine who I was; but passing by a new built Church, standing neere a place of dunghils, where were none but mean houses, some thatched, and some tyled, and asking what Town that was, answer was made me that it was the City of _Guatemala_, and that that, being called St. _Sebastian_, was the onely Parish Church of the City. With this my high conceiting thoughts stooped down to think of some second _Chiapa_; till having continued on a while by houses on my right hand and dunghils on my left, I came to a broader street having houses on each side, which seemed to promise a City at hand.

At my first turning I discovered a proud and stately Cloister, which was the place of rest to my wearied body. I surrounded it to finde out the back gate, and there lighted, and enquired for the Prior, who bad me very welcome, assuring me that for the Provincials sake, I should want no incouragement, and that hee would doe for mee much more then what the Provinciall had signified unto him by Letters. He told mee hee had beene brought up in _Spain_, in the Country of _Asturias_, where many _English_ ships did use to come, and having seen there many of my Nation, he affected them very much, and to mee as one of so good a Nation, and as a stranger and Pilgrime out of my owne Country, hee would shew all the favour that the utmost of his power would afford. How glad was I, to find in him so contrary an opinion to that of foure eyed _Hidalgo_? And how did he performe his words? He was the chief Master and Reader of Divinity in the University, his name Master _Jacintho de Cabannas_, who finding mee desirous to follow the Schools, and especially to hear from him some lessons of Theologie, within the first quarter of yeer, that I had been his constant and attentive Auditor, graced mee with a publick act of conclusions of Divinity, which I was to defend under his direction and moderation in the face of the whole University and Assembly of Doctors and Divines, against the Tenents of _Scotus_ and _Suarez_.

But the principall and head conclusion was concerning the birth of the Virgin _Mary_, whom both Jesuites, _Suarez_ and Franciscans, and Scotists hold to have beene borne without Originall sinne, or any guilt or staine of it, against whose fond, foolish and ungrounded fancies, I publickly defended with _Thomas Aquinas_, and all Thomists, that shee (as well as all _Adams_ posterity) was borne in Originall sin. It was an act, the like whereof had not been so controverted in that University with arguments in _contra_, and their answers and solutions, and with reasons and arguments in _pro_ many yeers before. The Jesuites stamped with their feet, clapt with their hands, railed with their tongues, and condemned it with their mouths for a heresie, saying, that in _England_, where were hereticks, such an opinion concerning Christs mother might bee held, and defended by mee who had my birth among hereticks, but that Master _Cabannas_ borne among _Spaniards_, and brought up in their Universities, and being the chief Reader in that famous Academy should maintaine such an opinion, they could not but much marvaile and wonder at it.

But with patience I told them, that strong reasons, and the further authority of many learned _Thomist_ Divines should satisfie their vaine and clamorous wondring. The Act was ended, and though with Jesuites I could get no credit, yet with the Dominicans, and with Master _Cabannas_, I got so much that I never after lost it for the space of almost twelve yeers; but was still honored by the meanes of this _Cabannas_ and Fryer _John Baptist_ the Prior of _Chiapa_ (who at Christmas ensuing was made Prior of _Guatemala_) with honors and preferments as great as ever stranger was living among _Spaniards_. These two above named being at Candlemas or beginning of _February_ that same yeer at _Chiapa_, at the election of a new Provinciall, would not forget mee their poorest friend stil abiding in _Guatemala_, but remembring that the University (which belonged chiefly to the Cloister) at Michaelmas would want a new Reader or Master of Arts to begin with Logick, continue through the eight bookes of Physicks, and to end with the Metaphysicks, propounded mee to the new elected Provinciall (whose name was Fryer _John Ximeno_) and to the whole Chapter and Conventicle of the Province for Reader of Arts in _Guatemala_ the Michaelmas next ensuing.

Their suit for me was so earnest and their authority so great that nothing could bee denied them, and so they brought unto mee from the Provinciall Chapter these insuing Letters Patents, from Fryer _John Ximeno_, whose form and manner I thought fit here to insert out of the Original in _Spanish_ (which to this day abideth with me) for curiosity and satisfaction of my Reader.

_Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General y Prior Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores. Por quanto nuestro Convento de Sancto Domingo de Guatemala carece de Lector de Artes. Por la presente Instituyo y doy por Lector Al Padre fray Thomas de Sancta Maria_ (so was my Name then, and by this name will some _Spaniards_ know mee, who may chance hereafter to read this, and curse mee) _por la satisfaccion que tengo de su sufficiencia. Y mando al Pe. Prior del dicho nuestro Convento, le ponga en possession del tal Officio. Y para mayor merito de obediencia le mando in virtute Spiritu sancti, et sanctæ obedientiæ, et sub præcepto formali; In nomine Patris, et Filii et Spiritus sancti. Amen. Fecho en este nuestro Convento de Chiapa la Real en nueve de Febrero de_ 1627. _Y la mande sellar con sello mayor de nuistro officio._

Fray Juan _or_ Ximeno Plis.

Por Mandado de Nostro Rdo. Padre, Fray Juan de Sto. Domingo Noto.

_Notifique esta Patente a el Contenido, en_ 12 _dias del mes de Abril de_ 1627. Fray Juan Baptista Por.

This Form according to the Originall in _Spanish_ is thus in _English_, and to this purpose.

Fryer _John Ximeno_ Preacher Generall, and Prior Provinciall of this Province of Saint _Vincent_ of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, Order of Preachers. Whereas our Convent of Saint _Dominick_ of _Guatemala_ wanteth and stands in need of a Reader of Arts: By these presents I doe institute, name and appoint for Reader Fryer _Thomas_ of Saint _Mary_, for the great satisfaction which I have of his sufficiency. And I command the Prior of the foresaid our Convent, that hee put him into full possession and enjoyment of the said Office. And for the greater merit of obedience I command him (our forenamed Reader,) by vertue of the Holy Ghost, and of holy obedience, and under a formall precept, In the Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, Amen. Dated in this our Convent of _Chiapa_ the Royall, the ninth of _February_, 1627. And I commanded these to bee sealed with the great Seale of our Office.

_Fryer John or Ximeno Pal._

_By the command of our Reverend Father Fryer John of St. Dominick. Notary._

_I notified these Letters, Patents, unto the contained in them the_ 12. _day of the moneth of_ Aprill. 1627.

_Fryer John Baptist. Por._

This honour conferred upon mee a stranger, and new commer to the Province, made the Criolian party and some others (who had aymed at that place and preferment in the University) to stomack mee. But to mee it was a spurre to stir and prick mee on to a more eager pursuit of learning, to frequent the _Academy_ lessons with more care and diligence; and to spend my selfe and time, day and night, more in studying, that so I might performe with like honour that which was laid upon mee, and answer the expectation of my best and forwardest friends. Three yeers I continued in this Convent and City in obedience to the forecited Patents; oftentimes I thought within my self that the honour of my _English_ Nation here lay upon me in _Guatemala_, in not suffering any _Spaniard_ to goe beyond mee, or to outbrave mee with gallant, witty and well seeming arguments; and so many times I would at nine of the clock at night, when others were gone to bed, take in my chamber a cup of hot Chocolatte, that with it I might banish sleep from mine eyes, and might the better continue in my study till one or two in the morning, being bound to awake and bee up again by six.

I was loath in these three yeers to take upon mee any other of such charges which are common in such Convents; but especially to preach much, and to hear the Confessions of such both men and women as resorted to the Church of that Cloister, lest hereby my studies might bee hindered, and time spent in other waies. Yet the Prior and Master _Cabannas_ would often bee very importunate with mee, to obtaine the Bishops License for hearing of Confessions, and Preaching abroad in the City and Country (for in the Church of that Cloister I might and did sometimes, though seldome preach with Permission of the Provinciall) but this I strongly refused, untill such time as the Provinciall himselfe came to _Guatemala_, who hearing me once Preach, would by all meanes have mee further licensed and authorised from the Bishop, that so I might not bee straitned within the Cloisters limits, but abroad in other Churches might freely Preach, and thereby get some money for the better furnishing my selfe with Bookes. Hee therefore commanded mee to bee examined by five examiners all able Divines, for the space of three houres (as is the custome of that Order) and having three houres stood under their hard and rigid questions and examination, having also at the end obtained their approbation, then the Provinciall presented mee unto the Bishop with these words following, being taken out of the Originall yet abiding with mee.

_Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General, y Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores, Presento a Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima al Padre Fray Thomas de Sancta Maria, examinado y a provado por cinco examinadores per vota Secreta, conforme a nuestras Constitutiones, Para que Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima se sirva de darle licencia para Confessar y Predicar a todo genero de Gente en su Obispado, Conforme a la Clementina,_ Dudum de Sepulturis.

_A Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima Suplico le aya por Presentado, y se sirva de dalle la dicha licencia, que en ello recibire merced._

Fray Juan or Ximeno, Palis.

This forme of presentation, used among them, naming the party presenting, and the party presented, is in English much to this purpose.

Frier _John Ximeno_, Preacher Generall, and Provinciall of this Province of _St. Vincent_, of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, Order of Preachers, do present unto your Lordship the father Frier _Thomas_ of _St. Mary_ (already examined, and approved by five Examiners by secret Votes, according to our Rule and Constitutions) that your Lordship may be pleased to grant him licence to heare Confessions, and to preach to all sorts of people in your Bishoprick, according to that Rule and Canon of Pope _Clement_, beginning with these words, _Dudum de Sepulturis_.

I humbly beseech your Lordship, to have him for presented, and to grant him your foresaid licence, and therein I shall receive great favour.

_Frier John or Ximeno. Palis._

The Bishop of _Guatemala_ being my great friend, and a well-wisher to learning and especially to that Universitie, needed not many words of intreaty, but presently gave me this Licence written on the back-side of the presentation, and that without any further examination by his Clergy and part of his Chapter, which hee may and doth use when he pleaseth.

_Nos el Maestro Don Fray Joan de Sandoval, y, Capata, de la Orden de San Augustin por la Divina Gracia Obispo de Guatemala y la Vera Paz, y del Confejo de su Magistad etc. Por la Presente damos licencia al Padre Fray Thomas de Santa Maria de la orden de Predicadores Contenido en la Presentacion de su Religion atras Contenida, Para que en todo este nuestro Obispado pueda Predicar, y Predique la Palabra de Dios, y para que pueda administrar, y administre el Sacramento Santo de la Penitentia generalmente a todas las Personas que con el tubieren Devocion de Confessare (excepto Monias) y a las Personas que Confessare pueda absolver, y absuelva de todos sus pecados, Crimines y excessos, excepto de los casos reservados a su santidad, y a Nos por Direcho. Dada en la Ciudad de Santiago de Guatemala, en quarto de Diziembre de Mill, y Seyscientos, y veynte y nueve Annos._

El Obispo de Guatemala

Por Mandado del Illmo. mi Senor Pedro Ramirez de Valdes, Secretario.

This forme of licence to preach and heare confessions, from the Bishop of _Guatemala_, is worth Englishing for some things in it, which I shall observe with inclosed Parentheses as I goe along for the better reminding my Reader of them.

Wee (_Bishops in that Church scorne the name of a singular person, shewing they have the power of all persons joyned together in them, of rich and poore, of subject and Prince_) Master and Lord Frier _John de Sandoval y Capata_ of the Order of St. _Augustin_ (_though brought up in a poore Mendicant Cloister, yet now he takes upon him the Title of a Lord, and shewes how Prelates in that Church use to Lord it over the people_) by the Divine Grace Bishop of _Guatemala_ and the _Vera Paz_, (_he stiles himselfe a Bishop by Divine Grace, whereas he himselfe acording to the common report of him, as also are most Bishops there made, was made Bishop not by any Divine Grace, but by unwarranted Simony and favour from Courtiers, having given many thousand Crownes for that his Bishopricke_) of his Majesties Councell (_Bishops there must be Counsellors to Kings, and meddle in Court and Politicke affaires_) by these Present give licence to Father Frier _Thomas_ of Saint _Mary_, of the Order of Preachers, contained in the Presentation from his religious Order on the back-side of this our licence, that throughout all our Bishopricke he may and doe preach the word of God (_yet I confesse This word of God is little used in Sermons in that Church, but rather the words of Saints of theirs and Fathers, and lying words of miracles, wherewith they stuffe up a whole houres preaching_) and that he may and doe administer the holy Sacrament of Penance (_not holy as it came from the mouth of him to whom the Seraphims cry Holy, Holy, Holy, but as it came from the head of_ Rome, _who sacrilegiously stiles himselfe Holinesse and most Holy Father.

Not a Sacrament as so left and ordained by Christ, but one of_ Romes _seven Sacraments, which as it is a City knowne and distinguished by seven hills, so will that Church be knowne and distinguished from the true Church by seven Sacraments_) generally to all persons, which shall have devotion to confesse with him, excepting Nuns (_this Bishop had in that City one of the six Judges of the Chancery his daughter a Nun called_ Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz, _whom he loved dearly, and much conferred with her in private in the Cloister, whose private conferences he was jealous they should be knowne in Confession, and therefore would suffer none to hear Nuns Confessions, but such as were his most intimate friends, and of whom he had great satisfaction, alleadging this reason that such as heard Nuns Confessions ought to be very skilfull and experienced in such waies, and men of age; for that greater cases of Conscience were to be met with in Nuns Confessions, than in others. By which reason he unwisely brought an aspersion upon those Virgins, who should live chastly and holily as separated from the world and inclosed, and yet it seems by this Bishops opinion, that within their inclosed walls sins are committed more grievous then abroad in the wide world, and such as may puzzle a Ghostly Father if not skillfull and ancient_) and that he may and doe absolve all persons which shall confesse with him (_if onely God can pardon and absolve from sinne, Oh how is Gods power arrogated and taken, yea and abused by those sacrilegious Priests!_) from all their sins, crimes, and excesses, excepting such cases as are reserved to his Holinesse, and to us by Canon right.

(_A wicked rule and Canon, a Government certainly most cruell and tyrannicall, that bindes poor wretches in some cases to goe from_ America _to_ Rome_, at least eight thousand miles to cleare their Consciences before the Pope, or else they must die without pardon and absolution from sinne, many having not meanes to goe thither, nor gifts to bestow upon their Pope, who must be bribed to absolve them. O how more sweet, comfortable and safe is it for a heinous sinner and offendour even at home or in the Church grieving within his heart, and keeping within himselfe, to lift up a broken heart, and make that poste and flie with wings of Eagles to the high Throne of Gods grace and mercy, with assured confidence that there only is pardon, remission and absolution granted to all such as doe truely and unfeignedly repent of their sins, crimes and excesses!_) Dated in the City of _St. James of Guatemala_, the fourth day of _December_, in the yeer of our Lord 1629.

_The Bishop of_ Guatemala.

_By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord_, Peter Ramirez de Valdes. _Secretary._

Thus with full and ample Commission from the Bishop and the Provinciall was I setled in _Guatemala_, to read and preach, where, (although I might have continued many yeers and was offered to read Divinity, having in part begun it one quarter of a yeere) I continued yet but three yeers and almost an halfe for the reason I shall shew hereafter. So what in that time I could observe of that City, and of the Countrey round about, having had occasions to travaile about it both when I lived in _Guatemala_, and afterwards when I lived for above seven yeers in the Countrey Townes, I shall truly and faithfully recommend unto my Reader. This City of _Guatemala_ (called by the Spaniards _Santiago_, or _St. James_ of _Guatemala_) is seated in a valley, which is not above two miles and a halfe broad, for the high mountaines doe keep it close in; but in length towards the South-sea it continues a wide and champaigne Countrey, opening it selfe broader a little beyond that Towne, which to this day is called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old City, standing somewhat above three miles from _Guatemala_.

Though the mountaines on each side doe strongly environ it, and especially on the East-side seem to hang over it, yet none of them are hinderers to Travellers, who over them have opened waies easie for man and beasts though heavily laden with wares of all sorts. The way from _Mexico_, if taken by the coast of _Soconuzco_, and _Suchutepeques_ comes into the City North-west-ward, which is a wide, open and sandy rode; if it be taken by _Chiapa_, it lieth North-east, and entreth into the City between the mountaines, as before hath been noted. West-ward to the South-sea the way lieth open through the valley and a champaigne Countrey. But South or South-East, the entrance is over high and steepy hils, which is the common Rode from _Comayagua, Nicaragua_, and the _Golfo dulce_ or sweet Gulfe, where the ships come yeerly and unlade all the Commodities which are brought from _Spaine_ for _Guatemala_. This also is the way followed by them who take a journey meer East-ward from this City. But the chiefest mountaines, which straighten in this City and valley are two, called Vulcanes, the one being a Vulcan of water, and the other a Vulcan or mountain of fire, termed so by the _Spaniards_, though very improperly a Vulcan may be said to containe water, it taking its name from the heathenish God _Vulcan_, whose profession and imployment chiefly was in fire.

These two famous mountaines stand almost the one over against the other, on each side of the valley; that of water hanging on the South-side almost perpendicularly over the City, the other of fire standing lower from it, more opposite to the old City. That of water is higher then the other, and yeelds a goodly prospect to the sight, being almost all the yeer green, and full of _Indian_ Milpa's, which are plantations of _Indian_ wheat; and in the small and petty Townes which lie some halfe way up it, some at the foot of it, there are Roses, Lillies, and other flowers all the yeer long in the gardens, besides Plantins, Apricockes, and many sorts of sweet and delicate fruits. It is called by the _Spaniards, el Vulcan del agua_, or the Vulcan of water, because on the other side of it from _Guatemala_ it springs with many brookes towards a Towne called Saint _Christopher_, and especially is thought to preserve and nourish on that side also a great lake of fresh water, by the Townes called _Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_.

But on the side of it towards _Guatemala_ and the valley it yeelds also so many springs of sweet and fresh water, as have caused and made a river which runneth along the valley close by the City, and is that which drives the water-mills spoken of before in _Xocotenango_. This river was not known when first the _Spaniards_ conquered that Country; but since, according to their constant Tradition, the City of _Guatemala_ standing higher and neerer to the _Vulcan_ in that place and Town which to this day is called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old City, there lived in it then about the yeer 1534. a Gentlewoman called _Donna Maria de Castilia_, who having lost her husband in the warres, and that same yeer buried also all her children, grew so impatient under these her crosses and afflictions, that impiously she defied God, saying, What can God do more unto me now then he hath done? he hath done his worst without it be to take away my life also, which I now regard not. Upon these words there gushed out of this Vulcan such a flood of water as carried away this woman with the streame, ruined many of the houses, and caused the inhabitants to remove to the place where now standeth _Guatemala_.

This is the _Spaniards_ own Tradition, which if true, should be our example to learne to feare and not to defie God, when his judgements shew him to us angry and a God that will overcome, when he judgeth. From that time, and from this their Tradition is the Towne now standing where first stood _Guatemala_, called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old City, and hath continued a river which before was not knowne, having its head and spring from this high Vulcan, whose pleasant springs, gardens, fruits, flowers and every green and flourishing prospect might be a fair object to a _Martials_ wit, who here would fancie a new _Parnassus_, find out new steps of flying _Pegasus_, and greet the Nymphes and nine Sisters with this their never yet discovered and _American_ habitation. This Vulcan or mountaine is not so pleasing to the sight (whose height is judged full nine miles unto the top) but the other which standeth on the other side of the valley opposite unto it, is unpleasing and more dreadfull to behold, for here are ashes for beauty, stones and flints for fruits and flowers, baldnesse for greennesse, barrennesse for fruitfulnesse, for water whisperings and fountaine murmurs, noise of thunders and roaring of consuming metals, for running streams, flashings of fire, for tall and mighty trees and Cedars, Castles of smoak rising in height to out-dare the skie and firmament, for sweet and odoriferous and fragrant smels, a stink of fire and brimstone, which are stil in action striving within the bowels of that ever burning and fiery Vulcan.

Thus is _Guatemala_ seated in the midst of a Paradise on the one side and a hell on the other, yet never hath this hell broke so loose as to consume that flourishing City. True it is formerly many yeers agoe it opened a wide mouth on the top, and breathed out such fiery ashes as filled the houses of _Guatemala_ and the Country about, and parched all the plants and fruits, and spued out such stones and rockes which had they fallen upon the City would have crushed it to pieces, but they fell not farre from it, but to this day lie about the bottome and sides of it, causing wonder to those that behold them, and taking away admiration from them that admire the force and strength of fire and powder in carrying on a weighty bullet from the mouth of a cannon, whereas here the fire of this mountaine hath cast up into the aire and tumbled downe to the bottom of it such rockes as in bignesse exceed a reasonable house, and which not the strength of any twenty Mules (as hath been tried) have been able to remove.

The fire which flasheth out of the top of this mountain is sometimes more and sometimes lesse; yet while I lived in the City, on a certaine time for the space of three or foure dayes and nights it did so burne that my friend Mr. _Cabannas_ confidently avouched to mee and others, that standing one night in his window he had with the light of that fire read a letter, the distance being above three _English_ miles. The roaring also of this monstrous beast is not constantly alike, but is greater in the summer time then in the winter, that is, from _October_ to the end of _April_, then all the rest of the yeer; for then it seems, the winds entring into those concavities set the fire on work harder then at other times, and cause the mountaine to roare and the earth about to quake. There was a time three yeers before my comming to that City, when the inhabitants expected nothing but utter ruine and destruction, and durst not abide within their houses for nine dayes (the earthquakes continuing and increasing more and more) but made bowers and arbours in the Market place, placing there their Idoll Saints and Images, especially St.

_Sebastian_, whom they hoped would deliver them from that judgement, and for this purpose they dayly carried him through the streets in solemn and idolatrous procession and adoration. But all the while I lived there the noise within the mountaine, the smoake and flashes of fire without, and the Summer earth-quakes were such that with the use and custome of them I never feared any thing, but thought that City the healthiest and pleasantest place of dwelling that ever I came into in all my travels. The climate is very temperate, farre exceeding either _Mexico_ or _Guaxaca_. Neither are the two fore-named Cities better stored with fruits, herbes for salets, provision of fish, and flesh, Beef, Mutton, Veale, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Rabbets, Quailes, Partridges, Pheasants, and of _Indian_ and _Spanish_ Wheat, then is this City: from the South Sea (which lyeth in some places not above twelve leagues from it) and from the Rivers of the South Sea Coast, and from the fresh Lake of _Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_, and from another Lake lying three or foure leagues from _Chimalienango_; it is well and plentifully provided for of fish.

But for Beef there is such plenty, that it exceeds all parts of _America_, without exception, as may be known by the Hydes, which are sent yeerly to _Spain_ from the country of _Guatemala_, where they commonly kill their Cattell, more for the game of their Hydes in _Spain_, then for the goodnesse or fatnesse of the flesh, which though it bee not to bee compared to our _English_ Beef, yet it is good mans meat, and so cheap, that in my time it was commonly sold at thirteene pound and a halfe for half a Riall, the least coyne there, and as much as three pence here. Though all about this Country there are very great and spatious Estancia's, or Farmes for breeding onely, even neer to the _Golfo Dulce_, where the ships ride that come from _Spain_, yet from _Comayagua_, St. _Salvador_ and _Nicaragua_, is _Guatemala_ stored; But above all are the great Estancia's in the South Sea Coast or Marsh, where in my time there was a Grazier that reckoned up going in his owne Estancia and ground, forty thousand heads of Beasts, small and great, besides many which are called there Simarrones, or wild Cattell, which were strayed among the Woods and Mountaines, and could not bee gathered in with the rest, but were hunted by the Blackmores like wild Bores, and daily shot to death, least they should too much increase and doe hurt.

My selfe chanced to bee present at the Fair of the Town of _Petapa_, with a friend named _Lope de Chaves_, (who was as they call there, Obligado, or charged to provide flesh for six or seven Townes thereabouts) who at one bargain, and of one man, bought six thousand head of Cattell, great and small, paying one with another eighteen Rials, or nine English shillings a head.

The manner and custome of _Guatemala_ for the better providing both Beef and Mutton for it, and the Country Townes about, is this. Nine daies before Michaelmas, every day Proclamation is made about the City for an Obligado, or one that will bee bound to the City and Country for competent provision of Flesh meat upon forfeiture of such a summe of money to his Majesty, if hee faile, as shall bee agreed upon between him and the Court, and to the Inhabitants of the City; if hee fail in beef, hee is to allow in Mutton so many pounds at the same rate as hee should have allowed beef. If the Obligado faile in Mutton, hee is to allow in Fowle flesh, so many pounds and at the same rate as hee was to allow the Mutton; and this with consideration of the family, what competent allowance of flesh meat shall bee judged for a day, or the dayes that the Obligado shall fail. Besides this the Proclamation is made for whom offers most to his Majesty for one yeers Obligation.

So that sometimes it happeneth that the eight daies severall men come into the Court, offering more and more, till upon the ninth day and last Proclamation, the Office is setled for one yeere upon him that hath offered most unto his Majesty. Thus many Butchers are not allowed but one onely Obligado, who also is abridged to so many pound for so much mony, so that if any other besides him offer to kill or sell, he may follow an action and the Court against him: Thus the Obligado (who commonly is a monied man) buyeth by the hundred or by the thousand, as for the present hee findeth the expence of the City, without hee bee himself such a Grazier, as hath Cattell enough of his owne. Though Mutton bee not so plentifull as is Beef, yet there never wants from the Valley of _Mixco, Pinola, Petapa_, and _Amatitlan_, and the _Marsh_ and other places. In the Valley fore-named I lived, and was well acquainted with one _Alonso Capata_, who had constantly going in the Valley four thousand sheep.

_Guatemala_ therefore is so well stored with good provision, plentifull and cheap, that it is hard to finde in it a begger, for with halfe a Riall the poorest may buy beef for a weeke, and with a few Cacao's they may have bread of _Indian_ Maiz, if not of _Spanish_ Wheat. This City may consist of about five thousand families, besides a Suburb of _Indians_ called _el Barrio de Sto. Domingo_, where may bee two hundred families more. The best part of the City is that which joyneth to this Suburb of _Indians_, and is called also _el Barrio Santo de Domingo_, by reason of the Cloister of Saint _Dominick_ which standeth in it. Here are the richest and best shops of the City, with the best buildings, most of the houses being new, and stately. Here is also a dayly Tianguez (as they call it) or petty Market, where some _Indians_ all the day sit selling fruits, Herbs, and Cacao, but at the foure in the afternoone, this Market is filled for a matter of an houre, where the _Indian_ women meet to sell their Country slap, (which is dainties to the Criolians) as Atolle, Pinole, scalded Plantins, butter of the Cacao, puddings made of _Indian_ Maiz, with a bit of Fowle or fresh Porke in them seasoned with much red biting Chile, which they call Anacatamales.

The trading of the City is great, for by Mules it partakes of the best commodities of _Mexico, Guaxaca_ and _Chiapa_, and Southward of _Nicaragua_, and _Costarica_. By Sea it hath commerce with _Peru_, by two Sea Ports and Havens, the one called _la Villa de la Trinidad_, the Village of the Trinity, which lyeth Southward from it five and twenty leagues; and by another called _el Realejo_, which lyeth five or six and forty leagues from it. It hath traffique with _Spain_ by the North Sea from _Golfo dulce_, lying threescore leagues from it. It is not so rich as other Cities, yet for the quantity of it, it yeelds to none. There were in my time five (besides many other Merchants who were judged worth twenty thousand Duckats, thirty thousand, fifty thousand, some few a hundred thousand) who were judged of equall wealth, and generally reported to bee worth each of them five hundred thousand Duckats; the first was _Thomas de Siliezer_, a Biscain born, and _Alcalde de Corte_, the Kings High Justice, or chief Officer at Court; the second was _Antonio Justiniano_, a _Genovois_ born, and one that bore often Offices in the City, and had many Tenements and houses, especially a great and rich Farme for corn and Wheat in the Valley of _Mexico_.

The third was _Pedro de Lira_, born in _Castilia_, the fourth and fifth, _Antonio Fernandez_, and _Bartolome Nunnez_, both _Portingals_, whereof the first in my time departed from _Guatemala_ for some reasons which here I must conceale. The other foure I left there, the three of them living at that end of the City called _Barrio de Santo Domingo_, or the street of St. _Dominick_, whose houses and presence makes that street excell all the rest of the City, and their wealth and trading were enough to denominate _Guatemala_ a very rich City. The Government of all the Country about, and of all _Honduras, Soconusco, Comayagua, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Vera Paz, Suchutepeques_, and _Chiapa_, is subordinate unto the Chancery of _Guatemala_; for although every Governour over these severall Provinces is appointed by the King and Councell of _Spain_, yet when they come to those parts to the enjoyment of their charge and execution office, then their actions, if unjust, are weighed, judged, censured, and condemned by the Court residing in the City. This Court of Chancery consisteth of a President, six Judges, one Kings Attourney, and two chief Justices of Court.

The President, though hee have not the name and title of Viceroy, as they of _Mexico_ and _Peru_, yet his power is as great and absolute as theirs. His Pension from the King is but twelve thousands Duckats a yeer; but besides this, if he be covetous, hee makes by bribes and trading twice as much more, nay what hee list, as was seen in the _Count de la Gomera_, President of that City and Chancery for the space of fourteen yeers, who departed in old age from _Guatemala_ to _Canaria_ (where was his house and place of birth) worth Millions of Duckats. After him succeeded _Don Juan de Guzman_, formerly President of _Santo Domingo_, who losing his Wife and Lady in the way, lost also his former spirit and courage, betaking himselfe wholly to his devotions, contemning wealth and riches, governing with love and mildnesse, which made the rest of the Judges, who were all for lucre, soone weary him out of his office, continuing in it but five yeers. His successor (whom I left there when I came away) was _Don Gonzalo de Paz y Lorencana_, who was promoted from the Presidency of _Panama_ to that place, and came into it with such a spirit of covetousnesse as the like had not been seen in any former President.

Hee forbad all gaming in private houses in the City, which there is much used (though by women not so much as in _Mexico_) not for that hee hated it, but because hee envied others, what they got and gained by their Cards, drawing to himselfe thereby all that gaine, spending sometimes in one night foure and twenty paire of Cards, appointing a Page to assist at the Tables, and to see the box well paid for every paire of Cards, which for his, and his Court respect, was seldome lesse then a crown or two for every paire. Thus did hee lick up with his Cards most of the gamesters gaines, and would grudge and pick quarrels with such rich men whom hee knew to affect gaming, if they frequented not his Court at night time for that bewitching Recreation.